tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44944984375333044502024-03-19T03:12:04.305-07:00RetroFixesThe Art of Restorations, Modifications & Preservation. Specializing in Retro Gaming, Vintage Computers & Circuit Bending.Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.comBlogger67125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-1083813165056244772019-08-13T06:46:00.000-07:002019-08-13T07:06:17.927-07:00Rare NWC Cart #302 Discovered!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWapngqOJJVXsYvfVnC-c5BVPoa4L7o2l5fE0SKQF4dvk-og98tBOgky_ZBilHIqNpfspJEWQm7hcHfDyPtd5r7Fa_-wFxQ8SfC-1XiE4uor0wl38KfA88F90XJyzHdL6r6uOjwE5a7uyM/s1600/nwc+found+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="472" data-original-width="510" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWapngqOJJVXsYvfVnC-c5BVPoa4L7o2l5fE0SKQF4dvk-og98tBOgky_ZBilHIqNpfspJEWQm7hcHfDyPtd5r7Fa_-wFxQ8SfC-1XiE4uor0wl38KfA88F90XJyzHdL6r6uOjwE5a7uyM/s320/nwc+found+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The discovery of the NWC 1990 cart in a grocery bag comes just a week after a man from Reno, Nevada discovered a sealed copy of Kid Icarus for the NES while cleaning out his attic. The game was sold in an auction for $9,000.<br />
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The NWC cartridge is a lucrative collector’s item with less than 200 copies worldwide.<br />
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Pink Gorilla co-owner Cody Spencer said that a man in his mid-30s walked into one of the company’s branches with “a Safeway bag full of the most boring NES games you can imagine.”<br />
Most game shops receive common sub $50 games for trade-in. Spencer said "At the bottom... that's it. It's the last one I pull out of the bag!" <br />
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After doing his due diligence to confirm the seller's identity, Spencer made an offer on par with other recent gray-cartridge sales: a $13,000 check on the spot.<br />
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Pink Gorilla later sold the NWC cart to an Anonymous buyer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3z1W26BKqa3WwF62Wq12npUHFN_CRnGEe3U175dGWpXWUTCUVRx5v0PM5r7qe3Pt2I7tRBe_bkQAXxz7uoXibA9PGxpB7-3jmHaepumnLjGtruO6KdO8w9Ep8aYUWkphYFPdvb6EoKLX-/s1600/nwc+found+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3z1W26BKqa3WwF62Wq12npUHFN_CRnGEe3U175dGWpXWUTCUVRx5v0PM5r7qe3Pt2I7tRBe_bkQAXxz7uoXibA9PGxpB7-3jmHaepumnLjGtruO6KdO8w9Ep8aYUWkphYFPdvb6EoKLX-/s320/nwc+found+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-59122029677272780872018-11-30T12:07:00.000-08:002019-08-13T06:53:31.670-07:00Al Lowe selling his Sierra source code collection on eBay<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Al Lowe, one of Sierra On-Line's seminal game creators and programmers, has been sitting on a pile of his original games' source code files for over 30 years.<br />
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"I’m 72 years old, and none of my kids want this junk!" Lowe said in an interview with YouTube personality MetalJesusRocks (ex-Sierra developer). "Does anybody?"<br />
Lowe is about to find out, as the developer has begun posting eBay listings for his entire source-code collection. (You read that correctly. The whole shebang.) The sale's opening has been accompanied by a MetalJesusRocks video, which offers a 12-minute tour of backed-up files, original game boxes, original hint books, and more.<br />
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Lowe has <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Source-code-to-Leisure-Suit-Larry-1-unique-collectors-Al-Lowe-1987/183561134340?hash=item2abd18a104:g:iHUAAOSwzwVcAQA4:rk:2:pf:0">listed auctions</a> for the first two Leisure Suit Larry game sources, with bids already climbing (both well over $ 400 value after they went live). Lowe indicated that Lindsey would like more game code to follow on eBay, and this is likely to include an amazing treasure chest: Lowe's second Leisure Suit Larry game, King's Quest III Police Quest I and Lowes Games based on Disney franchises Winnie The Pooh and Black Cauldron.<br />
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In addition, Lowe also has original backups of its full programming pipeline, including Sierra tools that convert plaintext, ASCII commands into interpreted code. When you click on how curious users can read these disc files, Lowe will answer: "It's a text file! Add it to Notepad."<br />
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Lowe's lists clarify some things: first, he has not tested any of these records and, secondly, these discs are not the same as having the legal rights to freely or commercially distribute the content. "Understand that while you get my data starting with Larry 1 ] creation, you do not own intellectual property rights to the game, code, art, or anything else," Lowe says in the list LSL1 ]. "Neither I. IP rights were sold over and over until they are owned by a German gaming company."<br />
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Now is your chance to own a piece of history!<br />
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<br />Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-36803081562716185752018-08-02T06:58:00.001-07:002018-08-02T06:59:20.395-07:00NES Classic Mini Outsold PS4 & Xbox<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyl1-irndio_ffi9DqIkMbEL4jpPj7K4mb_dnBOCepWZTXYPwH33_Xk_uUI_t6Lp3YtkaVA0HIrxS40T1tfKxLPOi82Z5ANuuYu8Am5Q0A6MyXi5p-SPS89-iFiyO_UM34_BzHu4CgQN0N/s1600/nes+mini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="819" height="371" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyl1-irndio_ffi9DqIkMbEL4jpPj7K4mb_dnBOCepWZTXYPwH33_Xk_uUI_t6Lp3YtkaVA0HIrxS40T1tfKxLPOi82Z5ANuuYu8Am5Q0A6MyXi5p-SPS89-iFiyO_UM34_BzHu4CgQN0N/s640/nes+mini.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "open sans" , sans-serif;"><b>Originally released back in 2016, it quickly became one of the hottest gadgets of the year. </b></span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "open sans" , sans-serif;">However, the recent release of another batch of consoles has seen the NES Classic rocket to the top of the sales charts for the month. The NES Classic was the #2 best-selling console in America in April, right behind the Nintendo Switch. </span><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "open sans" , sans-serif;">This is the first time the NES has led in the monthly unit sales since the charts originally began in 1995. This resurgence of the device impacted the wider market - with hardware sales across all platforms totaling $350 million.</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "open sans" , sans-serif;">Yes, this little console outsold PS4, 3DS, and Xbox One. </span>Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-12573855199991097382016-09-25T15:11:00.001-07:002018-03-28T09:34:55.596-07:00Rare WideBoy64 Adapter - A look Inside<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U12dTvWQuro/V-avs6HjVKI/AAAAAAAAD6I/1YJMVwcnlqEIdib8lwc89XhimrbF61knwCPcB/s1600/RetroFixes%2BN64%2BWideBoy%2BGB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U12dTvWQuro/V-avs6HjVKI/AAAAAAAAD6I/1YJMVwcnlqEIdib8lwc89XhimrbF61knwCPcB/s320/RetroFixes%2BN64%2BWideBoy%2BGB.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Developed by Intelligent Systems, the Wide-Boy64 is much like the Super Gameboy device for SNES. This adapter will allow Gameboy, Gameboy Color & Gameboy Advance games to play on the N64.<br />
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Unfortunately this device was not available at your local Toy R Us store in 1996. Nintendo had strict policies and only offered this to a software licensee. The Wideboy had a asking price of $1400. You could have purchased x2 Neo Geo consoles for that price!<br />
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Two major versions of Wide-Boy64 were released.<br />
<b>WideBoy CGB:</b> Game Boy and Game Boy Color games<br />
<b>Wideboy AGB:</b> (as shown here) Has additional Game Boy Advance support.<br />
The
IDE connector allows a direct connection via a modified GBA
handheld. Games could be controlled via the GBA handheld or a
N64 controller. <br />
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The WideBoy64 was used during the Pokémon League Summer Training Tour in 1999. Also the Canadian children's game show "Video & Arcade Top 10" used the Wide-Boy64 so contestants could play Game Boy titles. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kjzqQ5yAZgw/V-azGs9-zZI/AAAAAAAAD6w/Guv1Nzb75mo53CjFVo8b2wmmq3NhFo9SQCPcB/s1600/wideboy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kjzqQ5yAZgw/V-azGs9-zZI/AAAAAAAAD6w/Guv1Nzb75mo53CjFVo8b2wmmq3NhFo9SQCPcB/s320/wideboy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Example Screen Shot</td></tr>
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<b>How did we obtain this super rare item?</b><br />
This device came in for a tuneup/repair job. It needed a full capacitor replacement and general checkup. Several of the caps had drifted out of spec and one was leaking! I wanted to document the inner workings of this device before it shipped back..<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aH1UHGVacEk/V-avs-I2WiI/AAAAAAAAD6A/jHQyhuw6TOwp_c4acTO48OUNssuV-xP-gCPcB/s1600/RetroFixes%2BN64%2BWideBoy%2BPCB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="410" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aH1UHGVacEk/V-avs-I2WiI/AAAAAAAAD6A/jHQyhuw6TOwp_c4acTO48OUNssuV-xP-gCPcB/s640/RetroFixes%2BN64%2BWideBoy%2BPCB.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's a look Inside the WideBoy Unit. You can see the CPU AGB Arm processor chip at the top left.<br />
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2016 auction prices are $600-$1000 depending on the condition and if the handheld controller is included.Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-19200051270564314302016-06-24T19:52:00.000-07:002017-10-14T14:10:34.788-07:00Boil vs Bending - Will Boiling The NES 72Pin Really Work?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>Is your NES failing to read games? Blame the 72pin connector.</b><br />
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For many years the most common way to clean and adjust the NES 72 pin
connector was manually bending the pins back to position. This method is still very useful and
valid in certain situations. You can view my older article <i><a href="http://www.retrofixes.com/2013/07/nintendo-72-pin-connector.html">here. </a></i>which also describes how to disassemble the NES and remove the connector.<br />
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I first heard about this method years ago. I gave it a try on the worst 72pin in my collection. Boiling did not fix the connector during that first test. I immediately figured the boiling method was hype and never revisited the process.<br />
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Skip ahead a few years and I decided to try the boiling process again. <b>It worked beautifully!</b><i><b> </b></i>To my surprise the boiling process offers more than cleaning and breaking loose dirt & oil from the metal. The heat relaxes the metal and allows it to more closely assume its original shape.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mzya87FzvRE/Vf4AvUoeK7I/AAAAAAAAC2Q/ol2lsyrRh6w/s1600/NES%2B72Pin%2BClean%2BAdjust%2BRetroFixes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Mzya87FzvRE/Vf4AvUoeK7I/AAAAAAAAC2Q/ol2lsyrRh6w/s640/NES%2B72Pin%2BClean%2BAdjust%2BRetroFixes.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
In my opinion this is the main advantage with boiling, the pins assume the original spacing set from the factory. This is very difficult when manually bending pins as seen in my photo above. Often the pins are too tight after manual adjustment. Boiling brings the NES back to factory specs and is easy to do and difficult to mess up.<br />
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Manually bending the pins may be needed after boiling, so far I have encountered that.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">How to Boil:</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><i>(I am not responsible if you break yourself, the kitchen or the 72pin)</i></span><br />
<ol>
<li>Place the connector in clean preferably stainless steel pot. I would suggest using a pot that is not used for cooking. It is a good practice to keep mad scientist projects and food separate.</li>
<li>Add enough water to fully submerge the connector. I suggest placing it front side down, the force of boiling bubbles will be directed inside the pins. Don't worry, the plastic will not melt. </li>
<li>Turn the burner on high heat and bring to a rolling boil. Let the connector boil for 30mins. </li>
<li>Allow to cool, rinse and fully dry before installing. A hair dryer can speed up the drying process.</li>
</ol>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I hope this article was helpful to my readers. If you have any questions, comments or want to share your experiences with cleaning these 72pins please share below.</span><br />
<br />Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-59449882541459197532016-05-26T16:56:00.000-07:002018-03-28T09:34:34.757-07:00Connect a Famicom to American Televisions<h3>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NShNkKG2Tr0/UlGztP43eiI/AAAAAAAABXE/IHACXtW-PUA/s1600/Original+Famicom+Console01.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NShNkKG2Tr0/UlGztP43eiI/AAAAAAAABXE/IHACXtW-PUA/s1600/Original+Famicom+Console01.jpg" width="400" /></a>Wanna play Famicom?</h3>
Japan Channels 1-2 are not the same as USA channels 1-2.<br />
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Channel frequency divisions in the USA are a little different and we need to fool our American Television. <br />
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<b>Do not use the original Famicom RF cable that comes with the console.</b><br />
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Instead replace it with a common gray box American Nintendo RF cable. The NES, SNES, N64 and Gamecube RF is also compatible.<br />
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On the back of the Famicom Select "Game" and select Channel 1<br />
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Tune your Television to 95 and it <i>should</i> work.<br />
If you have any difficulty select Channel 2 on the famicom and tune the to channel 96.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8chyphenhyphenI7aoDCHLoXem9mdxhCwgIf7UV_ds-Fc-xzKln20_QTPyuhq3qdZsCYiPQr5iDxiK3ES6S3S4Byic-gmvl_iGvNR3zM2TS2tiba39IRvazoZ5voN2Ya2GJDZGQEVVRq48VDFxmtRL/s1600/P1080078+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI8chyphenhyphenI7aoDCHLoXem9mdxhCwgIf7UV_ds-Fc-xzKln20_QTPyuhq3qdZsCYiPQr5iDxiK3ES6S3S4Byic-gmvl_iGvNR3zM2TS2tiba39IRvazoZ5voN2Ya2GJDZGQEVVRq48VDFxmtRL/s1600/P1080078+copy.jpg" width="400" /> </a></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Channel & Mode Switch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
OK Lets recap</h3>
<ul>
<li>Don't Use the original famicom RF cable</li>
<li>Replace it with a standard American version (standard gray box NES) </li>
<li>The rear of the famicom has channel 1 or channel 2 output</li>
<li>Channel 1 = American 95</li>
<li>Channel 2 = American 96 </li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: red;">Famicoms can now be upgraded to composite video! Works on all modern HDTVs and classic CRTs. No RF cables or weird channel settings required. I am offering this upgrade service for Famicom and many other classic consoles. <a href="http://www.retrofixes.com/2015/02/famicom-nintendo-av-led-upgrade.html"><i>More info here</i></a></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://www.retrofixes.com/2015/02/famicom-nintendo-av-led-upgrade.html"><img alt="http://www.retrofixes.com/2015/02/famicom-nintendo-av-led-upgrade.html" border="0" height="425" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7Zep_gVh-OY/VO5FD_VtV0I/AAAAAAAACNA/4hwusOiJK84/s1600/Famicom%2BAV%2BMod%2BRear%2BCustomText.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-27645895618452841022016-03-25T09:54:00.005-07:002016-03-25T10:08:55.460-07:00How to Remove Old Price Labels From Collectibles<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I love finding vintage boxed games but often they have ugly price labels covering the box art. For years I thought it was impossible to remove a 30+ year old label. Though recently I decided to try the infamous Naphtha method. This is most often used in the LP Record collecting community.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>This works great on glossy paper stocks like record LP covers, most games cases, and other glossy laminated surfaces. I haven't experimented with non glossy surfaces. I prefer using this method on low value items like my $5 Atari game shown here. I can not be held responsible if you destroy a valuable item. Try this at your own risk.<br />
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<b><span style="color: red;"><i>Disclaimer:
Exercise caution when you are using naphtha. Work safely with small
amounts. I recommend picking up a pair of rubber gloves and working in a
well ventilated area. I can not be held responsible for damages caused
to your item or yourself.</i></span></b> <br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-odCyFL7DG28/VvRiM6YAmYI/AAAAAAAADoQ/Cy8SJek8I7UQ5XQ5v1s1qmm49l9knMyxw/s1600/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2Bcompare.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-odCyFL7DG28/VvRiM6YAmYI/AAAAAAAADoQ/Cy8SJek8I7UQ5XQ5v1s1qmm49l9knMyxw/s640/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2Bcompare.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Supplies:</b></span><br />
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1. Naphtha Lighter fluid.(Unlike alcohol or goo-gone,
lighter fluid will not remove any color or texture from the glossy /laminated paper surfaces.<br />
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2. A sticker peeling tool. I prefer using the actual "label removal tools" found online or office stores<br />
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3. Q-tips, Cotton balls or paper towels<br />
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<b>STEP 1:</b><br />
Find a clean and clear place to work. I prefer doing this sort of work outside in my garage. Don't work around high heat or flames.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pkVHRRkOXS0/VvRiOL2BBzI/AAAAAAAADoI/cRPDAKnQnpgYxKSOwSAY5JdhztBe9FNaQ/s1600/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pkVHRRkOXS0/VvRiOL2BBzI/AAAAAAAADoI/cRPDAKnQnpgYxKSOwSAY5JdhztBe9FNaQ/s640/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Step 2:</b><br />
Slowly saturate the label with lighter fluid. Make sure you get the whole sticker thoroughly wet with fluid and let it soak. The fluid will immediately start to evaporate. To prevent immediate evaporation I prefer to cover the sticker with a plastic bag. This will allow the fluid to work longer before evaporating.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M9C1r5noonI/VvRiK9yH3TI/AAAAAAAADns/kwN8MjsjkPEYPbPFqif0JkUgYTFZft-yQ/s1600/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M9C1r5noonI/VvRiK9yH3TI/AAAAAAAADns/kwN8MjsjkPEYPbPFqif0JkUgYTFZft-yQ/s640/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>STEP 3:</b><br />
After 10 minutes of soaking check on the label. Take your label removal tool and gently pry up a corner. If the label is stubborn DO NOT force it, add more fluid if label is dry and allow more soak time. Repeat this step as necessary. It should peel up easily when ready.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lsbG12flEJs/VvRiLEhjXeI/AAAAAAAADnw/K5ZRJVYTNooeWOAwir4-tGpnXVN2PTyXw/s1600/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lsbG12flEJs/VvRiLEhjXeI/AAAAAAAADnw/K5ZRJVYTNooeWOAwir4-tGpnXVN2PTyXw/s640/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B11.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BaB1Cg26-vc/VvRiNTNfdLI/AAAAAAAADoQ/2T10h7MX3N0p2IMg53l_ZzLWp-DFF1Bmg/s1600/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BaB1Cg26-vc/VvRiNTNfdLI/AAAAAAAADoQ/2T10h7MX3N0p2IMg53l_ZzLWp-DFF1Bmg/s640/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This last label was very stubborn and required several applications of fluid.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UZhPbBxiImU/VvRiLtTwOpI/AAAAAAAADoQ/Tpn3RrhBXvcxkHmjyJRBxifhFEL8znShQ/s1600/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UZhPbBxiImU/VvRiLtTwOpI/AAAAAAAADoQ/Tpn3RrhBXvcxkHmjyJRBxifhFEL8znShQ/s640/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Especially this small glue dot in the center. I was certain this would damage the box art but eventually came off :)<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O8_HAGJbBlo/VvRiLee3XAI/AAAAAAAADoQ/Z7tHC4mgbSUe1Ip-LWcSxsy5UKcrOHwcQ/s1600/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O8_HAGJbBlo/VvRiLee3XAI/AAAAAAAADoQ/Z7tHC4mgbSUe1Ip-LWcSxsy5UKcrOHwcQ/s640/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>STEP 4:</b><br />
Remaining label residue: This is where the Q-Tips or cotton balls come in handy. Rub in a circular motion to remove any stubborn glue or bits of sticker left behind. Add more fluid if needed. Most all stickers I have found come off without this final step.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a2O3CO7QS_Y/VvRj7XXM1eI/AAAAAAAADog/PRl1MsGyjaA_JodTXn--vrd9x5kw4rAGA/s1600/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a2O3CO7QS_Y/VvRj7XXM1eI/AAAAAAAADog/PRl1MsGyjaA_JodTXn--vrd9x5kw4rAGA/s640/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you see oily stains or residue from the fluid do not worry. It will evaporate within a few hours. Unlike alcohol or goo-gone,
lighter fluid won't remove any color or texture from the paper. <br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gl1HLKgSDx8/VvRj7cT60SI/AAAAAAAADoc/bqpApaDnZdQlR6M2jDM3AYDq1N8Wz1C8A/s1600/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gl1HLKgSDx8/VvRj7cT60SI/AAAAAAAADoc/bqpApaDnZdQlR6M2jDM3AYDq1N8Wz1C8A/s640/How%2Bto%2BRemove%2Bold%2BPrice%2BTags%2BRetroFixes%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hope you find this How To guide useful. If you had success removing labels please post your results in the comments section.<br />
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<br />Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-36958100373773194312016-02-13T20:36:00.003-08:002016-02-14T08:52:22.055-08:00Dead EarthBound / Adventures in Fixing SNES Games<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jLsejB49zMQ/VsCwobqFJWI/AAAAAAAADVg/5pPjDKDA1wk/s1600/Donor%2BCart%2BEarthbound%2BSNES%2BRepair%2BRetroFixes%2B16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jLsejB49zMQ/VsCwobqFJWI/AAAAAAAADVg/5pPjDKDA1wk/s400/Donor%2BCart%2BEarthbound%2BSNES%2BRepair%2BRetroFixes%2B16.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
This is a simple article documenting my adventures with repairing a dead Earthbound SNES game.<br />
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The owner reported the game stop booting up. No graphics and no signs of life. I offered to take a look and attempt repair.<br />
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After confirming the game was not functioning I searched for a Donor cart. Often transplanting the ROM (game program) to a new board is simpler than diagnosing and repairing the board.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s5bqMtAUlOY/Vr_xWybgnoI/AAAAAAAADUE/1O82q9moD8w/s1600/cartpcb_illustrated.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s5bqMtAUlOY/Vr_xWybgnoI/AAAAAAAADUE/1O82q9moD8w/s640/cartpcb_illustrated.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Earth Bound uses a <b>SHVC-1J3M-20</b> board. Luckily this board is shared with more common and cheaper games.<br />
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Games that use this PCB type:</b><br />
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<b> Bounty Sword</b><br />
<b> Breath of Fire II</b><br />
<b> Chrono Trigger</b><br />
<b> Dai-4-ji Super Robot Taisen (Super Robot Wars 4)</b><br />
<b> Dragon Quest III - Soshite Densetsu e...</b><br />
<b> <strike> Dragon Quest VI - Maboroshi no Daichi </strike>(my version did not match, online database needs updating)</b><br />
<b> Earthbound</b><br />
<b> Fire Emblem - Seisen no Keifu</b><br />
<b> Front Mission</b><br />
<b> Gakkou de Atta Kowai Hanashi</b><br />
<b> Human Grand Prix IV - F1 Dream Battle</b><br />
<b> Illusion of Time</b><br />
<b> NHL 97</b><br />
<b> Romancing Saga 3 (ロマンシング サ・ガ3)</b><br />
<b> Secret of Evermore</b><br />
<b> Seiken Densetsu 3 (せいけんでんせつ3, 聖剣伝説3)</b><br />
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As you can see my copy of Dragon Quest was not compatible. Hopefully this news will help others update the donor database. All list suggest Dragon Quest VI was a <b>SHVC-1J3M-20. </b>I had to reorder a new donor cart but this time I selected NHL 97 and it was a perfect match<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Io3wppoGZk/Vr_xVDAlSsI/AAAAAAAADUE/TOrgfC2Mp1s/s1600/Donor%2BCart%2BEarthbound%2BSNES%2BRepair%2BRetroFixes%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Io3wppoGZk/Vr_xVDAlSsI/AAAAAAAADUE/TOrgfC2Mp1s/s640/Donor%2BCart%2BEarthbound%2BSNES%2BRepair%2BRetroFixes%2B2.jpg" width="426" /> </a></div>
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Next step is to Desolder the ROM chips. Specialized tools are required for this step. This can be difficult for most home hobbyist. </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R3hXGryRXQI/Vr_5Hoc1gZI/AAAAAAAADUk/dygzZubB79Q/s1600/Donor%2BCart%2BEarthbound%2BSNES%2BRepair%2BRetroFixes%2B12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R3hXGryRXQI/Vr_5Hoc1gZI/AAAAAAAADUk/dygzZubB79Q/s640/Donor%2BCart%2BEarthbound%2BSNES%2BRepair%2BRetroFixes%2B12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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ROM Removed.<br />
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Earthbound ROM soldered onto the NHL 97. Soldering is clean and matches the factory look as much as possible (I'm not a robot)<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZN_HPUFQr1g/Vr_xVTYHf6I/AAAAAAAADUE/eINTteYEanw/s1600/Donor%2BCart%2BEarthbound%2BSNES%2BRepair%2BRetroFixes%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZN_HPUFQr1g/Vr_xVTYHf6I/AAAAAAAADUE/eINTteYEanw/s640/Donor%2BCart%2BEarthbound%2BSNES%2BRepair%2BRetroFixes%2B3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next step is testing in the SNES console....<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Txx3TgPhmv4/Vr_xVEgV5uI/AAAAAAAADUE/0VSY40dhLQg/s1600/Donor%2BCart%2BEarthbound%2BSNES%2BRepair%2BRetroFixes%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Txx3TgPhmv4/Vr_xVEgV5uI/AAAAAAAADUE/0VSY40dhLQg/s640/Donor%2BCart%2BEarthbound%2BSNES%2BRepair%2BRetroFixes%2B4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Fixed! Game booted up perfectly! I rescued a $200+ collectible SNES game with a $5 NHL 97. Awesome!</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Later I will replace the old Game Save battery and return this to the owner. He was trilled to have his game revived.</b></span>Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-53718378353035967992016-02-01T08:34:00.000-08:002017-02-20T08:45:34.559-08:00Everdrive SD Card Slot Alternatives / Preserving The Cartridge Shell<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b>What's the Everdrive?</b></h3>
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The <a href="http://www.krikzz.com/">Everdrive</a> is capable of
running games, software and even music tracks from a SD card.
Basically this is a SD card to classic console adapter.<br />
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Filing SD card slots in the cartridge shell has been the traditional method. You can view my old article here on filing slots on NES shells <a href="http://www.retrofixes.com/2013/09/everdrive-n8-diy-cartridge-shell-fitting.html"><i>here</i></a>. I have since discovered a much easier way to use the SNES everdrive and this will work for many other flash carts as well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlmIs9wh82_1Zdx_O3MuxbaU-HJgm-Depr-Izf9AERlvdWywW4t_11kn8wxR2fgUZY12s3Hl7z3v1GfKe2xCkpf42-74Tjpj3pxZhTj0SowkXin3tLXQPirW8wXVWjgfoc1eJs2FJ1Xctq/s1600/EverDrive+N8+NES07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlmIs9wh82_1Zdx_O3MuxbaU-HJgm-Depr-Izf9AERlvdWywW4t_11kn8wxR2fgUZY12s3Hl7z3v1GfKe2xCkpf42-74Tjpj3pxZhTj0SowkXin3tLXQPirW8wXVWjgfoc1eJs2FJ1Xctq/s640/EverDrive+N8+NES07.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<b><span style="color: magenta; font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black;">SNES Instructions: (For NES Scroll to Bottom)</span> </span></b><br />
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There is a small micro SD adapter on the market made for Macbook Air laptops. It's half the height of standard SD cards and perfect for this project. There are several variations on the market, purchase the one that matches my photo.<br />
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With the SNES Everdrive the adapter fits perfectly. No drilling,filing or hacking required!<br />
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Simply assemble the cartridge back toget her an play. Very simple. Obviously this method works best when your SD card is loaded with all the software and no immediate file changes are required.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WR9LSj-Wj7A/VlnR_k_5VyI/AAAAAAAADG0/QV9FwK8FeRw/s1600/EverDrive%2BSD%2BSlot%2BAlternative%2BRetroFixes%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WR9LSj-Wj7A/VlnR_k_5VyI/AAAAAAAADG0/QV9FwK8FeRw/s640/EverDrive%2BSD%2BSlot%2BAlternative%2BRetroFixes%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span style="color: black;">NES EverDrive N8 Method (For Mad Scientist Only)</span></b> </span></span><br />
<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">Honestly this requires simple modification to the SD adapter but I do not consider this practical for some. Follow the photo guide at your own risk. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sgPQE_2VnN4/VlnSAUpPvXI/AAAAAAAADG8/sh1ZvpRWW8s/s1600/EverDrive%2BSD%2BSlot%2BAlternative%2BRetroFixes%2BNES%2B5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="528" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sgPQE_2VnN4/VlnSAUpPvXI/AAAAAAAADG8/sh1ZvpRWW8s/s640/EverDrive%2BSD%2BSlot%2BAlternative%2BRetroFixes%2BNES%2B5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> To remove the SD card, find a small device like a toothpick or jewelers screwdriver and push the SD card down. This will initiate the eject mechanism.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span> </span></span>Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-53788845120244508902016-01-01T20:37:00.000-08:002017-02-20T08:51:54.803-08:00Donkey Kong Junior Coleco Tabletop<h3 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<h2>
Classic Portable Arcades </h2>
There's something about these little Coleco hand-held arcade games that Video game enthusiasts love. Unlike other versions this model was more advanced, sporting a colored LCD display and mirror to create better visuals. Many of these vintage arcades have held-up very well over years but seldom are they clean. This tutorial covers the basics on tear-down and cleaning.<br />
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Overview: </h2>
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<li>Original Price $60 </li>
<li>Release Date: 1983 </li>
<li>Manufacture: Coleco </li>
<li>Today's Value $70-$150 </li>
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Watch video footage of the actual gameplay, this color LCD display was advance for 1983.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='520' height='466' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/yboRYNNrgSc?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Restoration Supply List:</h3>
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<li>Phillips Screwdriver Medium Sized</li>
<li>90% Rubbing Alcohol</li>
<li>Windex or similar brand</li>
<li>Cleaning Swabs </li>
<li>Hi Polymer Eraser</li>
<li>Lint free cloth</li>
<li>Dawn Dish Soap or similar brand</li>
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Lets Get Started:</h3>
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First Remove the 3 screws located on the right side. <i>Note: Some models have the screws on left side.</i></div>
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On the bottom plate remove the six screws as shows. The four corner screws are hidden under the rubber anti-slip feet.</div>
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Separate the two halves as shown, the front faceplate will easily be removed during this step.</div>
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The left half is attached to power and speaker wires. This is a common area for power issues, check this area for loose connections.</div>
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If the battery contacts have built-up corrosion clean them with swabs dipped in vinegar.</div>
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Remove the top light panel, its has small clips in the right & left side. This aged plastic can be brittle, work carefully.</div>
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This is the backside of the LCD. For this tutorial I did not disassemble the screen. There are several layers of colored filters over the screen producing the color effects.</div>
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Remove all screws shown. 5 for the game controllers and 2 for the reflective mirror screen. </div>
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Once removed clean all the crevices, mirror & lcd viewing area with Windex / lint free cloth.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WKk9ihCeH0s/Umc5_4CzjLI/AAAAAAAABbw/Sts_-f0XD7E/s1600/Coleco+Tabletop+Arcade009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WKk9ihCeH0s/Umc5_4CzjLI/AAAAAAAABbw/Sts_-f0XD7E/s640/Coleco+Tabletop+Arcade009.jpg" width="640" /> </a></div>
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Wash the pads and controllers buttons in dish soap and water. Inspect the silicon pads for splits or other damage. Mild cleaners will prolong the life of the silicone pads vs rubbing alcohol.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M9nyRkZm-EA/Umc6LcLRTNI/AAAAAAAABcY/CEQHA0kmwtk/s1600/Coleco+Tabletop+Arcade014.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M9nyRkZm-EA/Umc6LcLRTNI/AAAAAAAABcY/CEQHA0kmwtk/s640/Coleco+Tabletop+Arcade014.jpg" width="640" /> </a></div>
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Clean these contact areas with a Hi-Polymer Eraser (my preferred method) or rubbing alcohol. </div>
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Once the plastic is clean and completely dry reassemble the arcade follow the steps above.</div>
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Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-48919174552657267412016-01-01T19:34:00.000-08:002017-02-20T08:52:17.414-08:00Restoring Zaxxon TableTop Mini Arcades<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XwEllrx7ihk/VFF4bm7xdVI/AAAAAAAAB6I/FmoGd0spuQQ/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XwEllrx7ihk/VFF4bm7xdVI/AAAAAAAAB6I/FmoGd0spuQQ/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-1.jpg" width="395" /></a></div>
<h2>
Overview: </h2>
Unlike other Coleco & Nintendo arcades this model was much more advanced. It relies on a Dual vacuum fluorescent displays (VFD) and a mirror to create its image.<br />
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Many of these vintage arcades have held-up very well over years but seldom are they clean. This tutorial covers the basics on tear-down, screen & Joystick cleaning.<br />
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<ul>
<li><b>Original Price $60 </b></li>
<li><b>Release Date: 1983 </b></li>
<li><b>Manufacture: Coleco</b></li>
<li><b>Today's Value $88-$150 </b></li>
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<h3>
Restoration Supply List:</h3>
<ul>
<li> Phillips Screwdriver Medium Sized</li>
<li> 90% Rubbing Alcohol</li>
<li> Windex or similar brand</li>
<li> Cleaning Swabs</li>
<li> Hi Polymer Eraser</li>
<li> Lint free cloth</li>
<li> Dawn Dish Soap or similar brand </li>
<li> Rubber Cement (for peeling labels)</li>
</ul>
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<b>Lets Get Started:</b><br />
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First Remove the 6 screws located on the bottom side. <i>Note: If your battery contacts are corroded try cleaning them with vinegar and Qtips. Light grit sandpaper can also be used in extreme cases.</i><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SU1v6NI7DdM/VFF4ezKLGnI/AAAAAAAAB5Q/1c9QBA1Da8E/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SU1v6NI7DdM/VFF4ezKLGnI/AAAAAAAAB5Q/1c9QBA1Da8E/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Separate the two halves as shown, work slowly and be aware of the inner mirror.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z6xY0m7-rDA/VFF4feO3OrI/AAAAAAAAB5c/YpWq4k_Kxpc/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="523" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z6xY0m7-rDA/VFF4feO3OrI/AAAAAAAAB5c/YpWq4k_Kxpc/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TByRIXnlNuM/VFF4fzdjsEI/AAAAAAAAB50/4hUAORUAYYg/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="451" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TByRIXnlNuM/VFF4fzdjsEI/AAAAAAAAB50/4hUAORUAYYg/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-7.jpg" width="640" /> </a></div>
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Now we have access to the two VFD screens and the reflective mirror. Cleaning these screens will make a huge improvement with gameplay. This is a good opportunity to remove all surrounding dust and clean the motherboard.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KHNJrklqG_k/VFF4gbtzRMI/AAAAAAAAB5w/RZeNWees5-U/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KHNJrklqG_k/VFF4gbtzRMI/AAAAAAAAB5w/RZeNWees5-U/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-9.jpg" width="492" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bkt3DYlPK5I/VFF4btyV9DI/AAAAAAAAB6Q/f9RVgafL5Sw/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bkt3DYlPK5I/VFF4btyV9DI/AAAAAAAAB6Q/f9RVgafL5Sw/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-11.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Below is a illustration of how the VFD reacts with the mirror. One screen reflects off the mirror, the other passes through creating a 3D illusion.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RO85GpGeUnQ/VFF4f_xh4-I/AAAAAAAAB5s/VEEwePvTTL0/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-77.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="548" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RO85GpGeUnQ/VFF4f_xh4-I/AAAAAAAAB5s/VEEwePvTTL0/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-77.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Start by cleaning the mirror with Windex and a microfiber cloth. Clean gently and avoid scratching the surface. If needed you can remove this mirror, its usually glued into place. Caution it is fragile.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZKrXG_SAGPs/VFF4cDYXqLI/AAAAAAAAB4U/Vk04PUpJDUE/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZKrXG_SAGPs/VFF4cDYXqLI/AAAAAAAAB4U/Vk04PUpJDUE/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-14.jpg" width="486" /> </a></div>
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Do the same for the VFD screens. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z23sfoKJxBc/VFF4cF326TI/AAAAAAAAB6A/XSAA8jfmL28/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-13.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z23sfoKJxBc/VFF4cF326TI/AAAAAAAAB6A/XSAA8jfmL28/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-13.jpg" width="640" /></a> </div>
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This VFD creates the Flying Zaxxon ship.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wHj8TjmqhwU/VFF4cmavHTI/AAAAAAAAB4Y/DodGy-qS4JE/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wHj8TjmqhwU/VFF4cmavHTI/AAAAAAAAB4Y/DodGy-qS4JE/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This VFD creates the background effects and enemy ships.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3UqgoBm8i68/VFF4cW4H-uI/AAAAAAAAB6U/DYSsTHxKZWQ/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3UqgoBm8i68/VFF4cW4H-uI/AAAAAAAAB6U/DYSsTHxKZWQ/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-15.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Its a good idea to clean the Joystick and button controls. Clean this area with alcohol (or electrical cleaner) with a qtip or cleaning swab.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-prFe-4cu6Ko/VFF4bTwFZgI/AAAAAAAAB6M/DGGIu-1weMQ/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-prFe-4cu6Ko/VFF4bTwFZgI/AAAAAAAAB6M/DGGIu-1weMQ/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next we can repair peeling decals and polish the plastic case.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ic0ryXHJgYU/VFF4ddpJYuI/AAAAAAAAB4s/s3PXmhKXu9M/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ic0ryXHJgYU/VFF4ddpJYuI/AAAAAAAAB4s/s3PXmhKXu9M/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-20.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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For peeling labels I prefer using Paper Cement. It's has a strong bond and is archival.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eeJjdGDShBM/VFF4d5zm5TI/AAAAAAAAB44/8-t-ftFTBo0/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-22.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eeJjdGDShBM/VFF4d5zm5TI/AAAAAAAAB44/8-t-ftFTBo0/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-22.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Apply a light coat of cement to the decal and the plastic. Don't worry about cement running outside the edge, it is easily removed once dried. Allow the cement to dry BEFORE pressing the decal back into place. This method ensures a strong bong.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-seSKKRTki60/VFF4eGfwjII/AAAAAAAAB58/TQ4zIIU1Zg8/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-seSKKRTki60/VFF4eGfwjII/AAAAAAAAB58/TQ4zIIU1Zg8/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-24.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Once dry use a flat edged tool and push the decal into place. Work the decal and remove any trapped air bubbles.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OAtiZuNpfT4/VFF4eWPaqbI/AAAAAAAAB5E/dPTNsw-xTWw/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OAtiZuNpfT4/VFF4eWPaqbI/AAAAAAAAB5E/dPTNsw-xTWw/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-25.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qD_1q-1mluA/VFF4ezZpA0I/AAAAAAAAB54/taPnnnWao4Y/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-27.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qD_1q-1mluA/VFF4ezZpA0I/AAAAAAAAB54/taPnnnWao4Y/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-27.jpg" width="400" /></a> </div>
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Last we can clean and polish the case with Novus #1 plastic cleaner. Buff the case with novus and a microfiber cloth. Try not to saturate the decals.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d88E2khq_-c/VFF4c6lrSCI/AAAAAAAAB4c/UCgu0StOQjA/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-17.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d88E2khq_-c/VFF4c6lrSCI/AAAAAAAAB4c/UCgu0StOQjA/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-17.jpg" width="400" /></a> </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dMJ1lSvLTPw/VFF4dOfV9qI/AAAAAAAAB48/dnXwFVO8ZF4/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-19.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dMJ1lSvLTPw/VFF4dOfV9qI/AAAAAAAAB48/dnXwFVO8ZF4/s1600/TableTop%2BZaxxon%2BRepair-19.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Done. Assemble the item following the steps above in reverse order. Enjoy your Arcade.</div>
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Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-87161282474382242322016-01-01T19:01:00.000-08:002017-02-20T08:47:31.440-08:00How To Remove Sharpie Marker from Plastic<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sbPrmb7GgvE/Vahcuo8rZuI/AAAAAAAACsg/5o1vA0kERfM/s1600/Remove%2Bsharpie%2Bmarker%2Bfrom%2BPlastic%2BRetrofixes%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sbPrmb7GgvE/Vahcuo8rZuI/AAAAAAAACsg/5o1vA0kERfM/s320/Remove%2Bsharpie%2Bmarker%2Bfrom%2BPlastic%2BRetrofixes%2B4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Don't let a few permanent marker scribblings stand between you and your next second-hand bargain. Here's how to remove permanent marker from hard plastic items like SNES controllers, video games and consoles.<br />
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Here is a perfect example of permanent marker on vintage items. Every
kid in the 1980-90s loved writing their names on gaming gear. This can
seriously hurt the value of collectables <i>(or help you score a better deal!)</i><br />
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<h3>
<b>My Tool List is Super Simple:</b></h3>
<ul>
<li><b>Water</b></li>
<li><b>Magic Eraser (found in every grocery store in America)</b></li>
<li><b>Optional 90% Rubbing Alcohol for stubborn stains.</b></li>
<li><b>Elbow grease </b></li>
</ul>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hKoOLGRsBN4/VahcuJmYkKI/AAAAAAAACsw/8MiiCr-3ew8/s1600/Remove%2Bsharpie%2Bmarker%2Bfrom%2BPlastic%2BRetrofixes%2B3.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hKoOLGRsBN4/VahcuJmYkKI/AAAAAAAACsw/8MiiCr-3ew8/s640/Remove%2Bsharpie%2Bmarker%2Bfrom%2BPlastic%2BRetrofixes%2B3.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I like cutting my magic erasers down to small pieces. It's easier to work with and the Box will last much longer. Dip the magic eraser in water and start scrubbing the plastic in a circular motion.<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2Ekz5SahtQE/VahcuJW-lXI/AAAAAAAACsk/qPfehgUmtjM/s1600/Remove%2Bsharpie%2Bmarker%2Bfrom%2BPlastic%2BRetrofixes%2B2.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2Ekz5SahtQE/VahcuJW-lXI/AAAAAAAACsk/qPfehgUmtjM/s640/Remove%2Bsharpie%2Bmarker%2Bfrom%2BPlastic%2BRetrofixes%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a> <br />
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Depending on the darkness of the ink this process may take 5-10min. Using rubbing alcohol will speed up the process.<br />
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Done! Super Simple process but I wanted to share this with everyone. This will also work with Consoles and video games. <b> When using magic erasers beware of delicate labels or silkscreened logos. They will come off!</b>Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-49649575510710614842016-01-01T18:06:00.000-08:002018-01-19T09:21:31.317-08:00Intellivision Composite A/V Mod Kit Installation Guide <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2aIcwKwR-iw/Vu9TGarWZiI/AAAAAAAADko/7uwon3sj7xAbb_Lb1J0UUBIZSQmqWlfvg/s1600/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2aIcwKwR-iw/Vu9TGarWZiI/AAAAAAAADko/7uwon3sj7xAbb_Lb1J0UUBIZSQmqWlfvg/s640/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This tutorial will show you how to install the Intellivision Composite A/V Mod Kit<b> </b><br />
<b></b><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<b></b><br />
<b><br />
</b> <span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Kit can be Purchased <a href="http://store.retrofixes.com/products/intellivision-composite-upgrade-amp-kit-coming-soon?variant=10373062855"><i>here</i></a>.</b></span></span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="color: magenta;"><b>Kit Details:</b></span></h3>
<span style="color: black;"><b>Kit PROS:</b> This kit is the
most compatible with a wide range of Intellivision motherboard
variations. No components are permanently removed during the installation. It's easy for the average DIY hobbiest. Other
upgrade kit designs (with equal video quality) require complete removal
of RF unit, very difficult for most home DIY installers. With this kit
only 4 wires are soldered to the motherboard. The kit can be easily
removed and reverted back to original RF if desired. </span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><b>Kit CONS: </b>As with all
circuits I have tested the composite video is not perfect. You may see
faint vertical lines on solid colors and some faint noise on screen. I
uploaded a few screen shots of games with this installed mod on my store page. Keep in
mind I have a very high standard with video quality and can be picker
than most. For the cost and ease of installation this is a excellent
kit.</span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Instructions are 99% complete. Some of the steps and grammar might be "off" </b></span></span><br />
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<b>Disclaimer: </b><br />
Though this job is a pretty easy task, it requires that you do some soldering of some wires and connections. If you are not skilled with a soldering iron, please send your console here for a full upgrade service! I cannot be held responsible for any harm you do to yourself or to your game console.<br />
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<b>Before Starting. </b><br />
Please leave your Intellivision game console at the ON position for at least 30 minutes with the power cord <u>unplugged</u>.. Please do not skip this stage! These consoles have large capacitors inside and they need to be discharged before doing any repairs/upgrades. Otherwise, you may get shocked by accidentally or unintentionally touching them<br />
<br />
<a href="http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf"><span style="font-size: medium;">Read this Awesome "Soldering is Easy – Comic" for Basic 101s of soldering click here.</span></a> <br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uj4hZQm64uQ/VvIljFf5IEI/AAAAAAAADlg/N3mknz-q7hM-PbdDby-HW46Ypx7pUlgZA/s1600/Intellivision_Composite_Mod_Kit_Silver_RetroFixes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uj4hZQm64uQ/VvIljFf5IEI/AAAAAAAADlg/N3mknz-q7hM-PbdDby-HW46Ypx7pUlgZA/s640/Intellivision_Composite_Mod_Kit_Silver_RetroFixes.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tools Needed <br />
• Soldering iron, solder, and solder braid<br />
• X-Acto knife<br />
• Drill with 3mm and 1/4” drill bits<br />
• Needle-nose pliers<br />
• Philips-head and flat-head screwdrivers <br />
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Step 1: <br />
Start by removing the 6 screws loacted on the bottom as shown below.<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DxtNJxbui60/Vu9TC8eXKYI/AAAAAAAADkk/ih-N0LyRIx0z4CgNDPENt_3tn6AHnF1jQ/s1600/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B2.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DxtNJxbui60/Vu9TC8eXKYI/AAAAAAAADkk/ih-N0LyRIx0z4CgNDPENt_3tn6AHnF1jQ/s640/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Step 2: <br />
Again, unscrew the six screws off the platform housing the cables of Intellivision controllers. Follow the pink circles for location. <br />
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Step 3: <br />
Carefully unplug the controller plugs, ribbon and power wires. It’s highly recommended that you unplug everything very carefully, the ribbon and cables are fragile from age.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-SSgbpo6es/Vu9TDubmvZI/AAAAAAAADkk/mS2u_ofBUOc17nILsHzdXKsg21A7CtPlg/s1600/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B4.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y-SSgbpo6es/Vu9TDubmvZI/AAAAAAAADkk/mS2u_ofBUOc17nILsHzdXKsg21A7CtPlg/s640/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B4.jpg" width="640" /></a> <br />
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After the cables are unplugged you can remove the motherboard unit from the console shell.<br />
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Step 4 : Now we need to removed the RF shielding. This step requires patience and is the most difficult step with the installation process. As shown below the top and bottom RF shield is held together by several soldered tabs. </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z_A1mxUIzaY/Vu9TBMIXb1I/AAAAAAAADkk/3kHgYqPoKEoBIQrC9qTfHHexMGdZ6QGhQ/s1600/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z_A1mxUIzaY/Vu9TBMIXb1I/AAAAAAAADkk/3kHgYqPoKEoBIQrC9qTfHHexMGdZ6QGhQ/s640/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Several methods can be tried. </b></div>
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Method 1. Use a desolder gun or desolder wick braid and remove the solder this will release the tabs. Method 2. Heat each tab with soldering iron and pry tab upwards with a xacto blade, as the solder releases the tab will break loose. </div>
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Method 3. Cut the tabs off with metal cutters. Works and is fast but reinstalling the RF shielding might be difficult afterwards.</div>
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Step 5:<br />
Next, we can start soldering the composite kit wires to the locations shown below. Look for these areas near the large metal RF box.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VwKPg2BGGn0/Vu9TE45byGI/AAAAAAAADkk/G5JFvCCHsF0om3uVHdhOV1cWdl66b4CTw/s1600/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VwKPg2BGGn0/Vu9TE45byGI/AAAAAAAADkk/G5JFvCCHsF0om3uVHdhOV1cWdl66b4CTw/s640/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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These solder points will connect to the input side of the upgrade kit.</div>
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Audio and video sources are found near the RF box as shown. Ground and power are located at the base of the ribbon as shown. The ribbon has 5 traces/stripes. Trace 1 is power/5v and trace 4 is ground.</div>
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<b>Kit Pinout: </b><br />
<b><b>(Input Side) </b>Connections for Console Motherboard </b><br />
<b>AI=Audio In / VI=Video In / 5v=Power Input / G=Ground</b><br />
<b> </b><br />
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Step 6: <br />
Use your needle-nose pliers and bend the piece of metal at the black shielding as shown below. This will be our opening for the amp wires to pass through.<br />
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Step 7: <br />
Now, solder back both of the RF shielding plates and make sure your previously soldered inner wires are not smashed in anyway. Your result for this stage should look something similar to the one below.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bMbQSAzLDVg/Vu9TBhwwiYI/AAAAAAAADkk/2Ycya4_rFyAY34j70BkYxgtNM2l3PBPdw/s1600/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B13.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bMbQSAzLDVg/Vu9TBhwwiYI/AAAAAAAADkk/2Ycya4_rFyAY34j70BkYxgtNM2l3PBPdw/s640/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B13.jpg" width="640" /></a> <br />
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Step 8: <br />
Drilling holes for RCA jacks. I prefer installing jacks on the left hand side of the console. 15mm down from top edge and 15mm spacing between each hole. Drill a small 3mm pilot first, then drill the final 1/4" holes.<br />
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Install the RCA jacks with the grounds tabs and lock washer on the inside of the shell. Tighten the jacks and add a small drop of crazyglue to the inside threads prevent loosening.<br />
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Step 9: <br />
Solder wires to RCA jacks.<br />
<b><b>(Output Side)</b> Connections to RCA Jacks </b><br />
<b>G=Ground, Connects to tabs on each RCA jack</b><br />
<b>VO=Composite Video Out, connects to yellow RCA jack.</b><br />
<b>AO=Audio Out, connects to both red and white RCA jack.</b> <br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SLpESSp093o/Vu9TCBFjaPI/AAAAAAAADkk/QWpcEtGCYjkIz7rq9NYwmqEsAMrdjjFtQ/s1600/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B155.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SLpESSp093o/Vu9TCBFjaPI/AAAAAAAADkk/QWpcEtGCYjkIz7rq9NYwmqEsAMrdjjFtQ/s640/Intellivision%2BComposite%2BAV%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B155.jpg" width="640" /></a> <br />
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Step 10: <br />
Now it's time to assemble your console and test your mod install. Make sure to reattach the power wires, controller wires and ribbon coming from the motherboard. Attach your double-sided tape on the back of the kit and place as shown in photo. <br />
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<b>Testing:</b><br />
If your mod doesn’t work, go back and double-check your wiring. <br />
Also make sure our games and cartridge port are clean. Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-68437567098330808102016-01-01T10:17:00.000-08:002017-02-20T08:46:15.310-08:00Rare NES Game MagMax Prototype <span style="font-size: small;"><b><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-swh1us_4GHM/VbJiwzjPYgI/AAAAAAAACxE/br50Hu7mLnE/s1600/NES%2BMagMax%2BPrototype%2BRetroFixes-8.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-swh1us_4GHM/VbJiwzjPYgI/AAAAAAAACxE/br50Hu7mLnE/s320/NES%2BMagMax%2BPrototype%2BRetroFixes-8.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b> What is a game Prototype?</b></span><br />
A prototype is one of the first copies of the game, programmed by the programmers & mainly used to test the game for bugs and to display their ideas. Prototype Nintendo games usually contains Eprom, as opposed to the actual production roms. These are rare items and seldom found "in the wild"<br />
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<a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: large;"><b>MagMax</b></span> is an arcade game which was developed by Nihon Bussan, and published by FCI. The game was released in Japan on March 18, 1986, and in the United States in October, 1988. A horizontal scrolling shooter, players controlled the title hover ship in an attempt to completely construct the ship into a giant robot and to destroy any enemies attempting to stop it.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r0KeQstuzeg/VbJoQ3ZyToI/AAAAAAAACxo/pJ5rg1rYTaU/s1600/NES%2BMagMax%2BPrototype%2BRetroFixes%2B9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r0KeQstuzeg/VbJoQ3ZyToI/AAAAAAAACxo/pJ5rg1rYTaU/s640/NES%2BMagMax%2BPrototype%2BRetroFixes%2B9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/AzEb6NH3QbU/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AzEb6NH3QbU?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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I recently received this game in a trade for repair services. This is the first game prototype to enter my collection and I wanted to share the images with the public.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OeG11h5xEjI/VbJivxT2v0I/AAAAAAAACxM/e4PcnmHLgDY/s1600/NES%2BMagMax%2BPrototype%2BRetroFixes-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OeG11h5xEjI/VbJivxT2v0I/AAAAAAAACxM/e4PcnmHLgDY/s400/NES%2BMagMax%2BPrototype%2BRetroFixes-3.jpg" width="341" /></a></div>
Buying prototypes is risky business and the board must be viewed and authenticated by experienced collectors. As stated before prototype games usually contain Eproms, as opposed to the actual production roms.<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cqbZguvv7Xg/VbJiwQed1aI/AAAAAAAACw8/FDa2Pt6DtTo/s1600/NES%2BMagMax%2BPrototype%2BRetroFixes-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cqbZguvv7Xg/VbJiwQed1aI/AAAAAAAACw8/FDa2Pt6DtTo/s640/NES%2BMagMax%2BPrototype%2BRetroFixes-5.jpg" width="640" /></a>Eproms are easily identified by the center clear window that is often covered with a protective decal. Eproms are early forms of rewritable chips, the chips can be exposed to strong UV light (with decal removed) and erased. Very popular and economical process in the 1980s when testing and writing Roms.<br />
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In the future I may make this Rom available to the public but so far the game seems identical to the final 1988 release.Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-49706285706110366002016-01-01T08:49:00.001-08:002021-12-13T09:07:10.909-08:00Atari 7800 Composite Mod Installation Guide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">**UNDER CONSTRUCTION**</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">99% COMPLETE</span></div>
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Atari <u>NTSC</u> 7800 Video Mod Installation Guide<br />
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<i><span style="color: red;">Disclaimer: This mod is designed to permanently remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk. </span></i><i><span style="color: red;">I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. </span></i><br />
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<i><span style="color: red;"><a href="http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf"><span style="font-size: medium;">Read this Awesome "Soldering is Easy – Comic" for Basic 101s of soldering here.</span></a> </span></i><br />
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<b>Tools You Will Need</b><br />
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Philips Screwdriver<br />
Soldering Iron and Solder<br />
Wire Cutters/Strippers<br />
Needle Nose Pliers<br />
Drill with 1/4″ and 3mm bits<br />
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<b>Purchasing: This kit can be purchased from my store <a href="http://store.retrofixes.com/collections/upgrade-diy-kits/products/atari-2600-simple-diy-composite-kit?variant=11832920071"><i>here</i></a></b><br />
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Turn the Atari over and remove the 5 screws. Set them aside for later. Remove the main board out of the console. <br />
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Using the need nose pliers, twist the tabs around the metal case so they are straight. Remove the metal casing (top and bottom) and throw it away (or recycle it) You can choose to keep and reinstall this later. It's not necessary and may get in the way of the amp kit wires.<br />
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You should now have the main board like this ready to modify. On the top left hand side of the board are the 5 parts you have to remove. They are highlighted in the picture with pink <b>X </b>marks. Use the wire cutters to cut both ends and dispose of these parts. Then you need to cut the 4 pins going into the RF modulator circuit board (silver box with circuit board attached to side). <br />
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The picture should look like below. These are where the input wires will connect to the amp kit to the mainboard. <br />
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<b>Optional POKEY Audio:</b><br />
Pokey Audio connects directly to the Red and White RCA Jacks. The mother outputs perfect audio and the amp kit is not needed for audio output.<b> </b><br />
Only a few games use the pokey audio, this step isn’t necessary unless you have commando, ball blazer, or some homebrew made game. If can choose not to install this wire. <i>(Note: If the pokey audio is too low add a 6.8k resistor (or any resistor near that value) in series to the main audio out wire. This should balance out the audio better.)</i><br />
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Normal audio used for all games can be found below. Audio connects directly to the Red and White RCA Jacks. The mother outputs perfect audio and the amp kit is not needed for audio output.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>RCA Install and Soldering:</b></span><br />
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Take the bottom half of the case and decide where where you want the RCA jacks to go. Some cases can
be very brittle so be careful. There are 2 common locations for RCA jacks. It's a personal preference.<br />
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Use a ruler and marker and make 3 dots 15mm apart. Then drill 3mm pilot holes on the dots, and use
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Attach the RCA jacks
by mounting them into the case with the ground ring and nut on the
inside. Make sure they are tight. Have the ground ring holes be at or
near the top and bend them down to make soldering easier. <br />
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<b>RCA Jack Wiring. </b>Connect all RCA ground tabs to the ground output from Kit. Solder the yellow RCA jack to the Composite video out on from the amp kit. Red and White RCA jacks solder to the audio motherboard point(s) shown earlier.<br />
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Note the install shown below is only an example of final board placement and wire length. Looking back I could have made the wires much shorter and moved the kit closer to the RCA jacks.<br />
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Now you are ready to put the main board into the case. Peel off the bottom of the double sided tape and stick it to any clear and clean location. Make sure the amp leads and bottom and bare wires are not touching other metal parts on the motherboard.<br />
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Replace the top case and screws and you are ready to play your Atari with composite video! Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-69588544052356588082015-12-01T08:44:00.000-08:002017-02-20T08:44:46.539-08:00Magnavox Odyssey 2 AV Composite Kit Installation Guide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zGXJfny3LiU/Vw0NZGrbUQI/AAAAAAAADtc/0bu8wzfJqnorPHBytGfcEe6RYLxaYTX3Q/s1600/Magnavox-Odyssey-2-Composite%2Bupgrade%2Bretrofixes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="382" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zGXJfny3LiU/Vw0NZGrbUQI/AAAAAAAADtc/0bu8wzfJqnorPHBytGfcEe6RYLxaYTX3Q/s640/Magnavox-Odyssey-2-Composite%2Bupgrade%2Bretrofixes.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Why Upgrade?</b><br />
The original system system had poor RF video quality. Many new HDTVs will not recognize vintage RF video signals. With this upgrade your sound and video will be much more crisp and clear. <br />
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Purchase the Kit <a href="http://store.retrofixes.com/collections/upgrade-diy-kits/products/odyssey-2-composite-mod-upgrade-amp-kit-coming-soon?variant=14876367559"><i>Here</i></a>.</span></span><br />
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<b>Disclaimer: </b><br />
Though this job is a pretty easy task, it requires that you do some
soldering of some wires and connections. If you are not skilled with a
soldering iron, please send your console here for a full upgrade
service! I cannot be held responsible for any harm you do to yourself
or to your game console. Please contact us for installation services if in doubt.<br />
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<b>Before Starting. </b><br />
Please leave your console system at the ON position for at least 30 minutes with the power cord <u>unplugged</u>..
Please do not skip this stage! These consoles have large capacitors
inside and they need to be discharged before doing any repairs/upgrades.
Otherwise, you may get shocked by accidentally or unintentionally
touching them<br />
<br />
<a href="http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf"><span style="font-size: large;">Read this Awesome "Soldering is Easy – Comic" for Basic 101s of soldering click here.</span></a><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pEm0JfYFVQo/Vw0RjdSdi3I/AAAAAAAADt0/vcrMBbeh5DU4ic9ly2cziPsWf2kimHB9Q/s1600/Odyssey_2_Composite_Mod_Kit_Gold_RetroFixes_1024x1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pEm0JfYFVQo/Vw0RjdSdi3I/AAAAAAAADt0/vcrMBbeh5DU4ic9ly2cziPsWf2kimHB9Q/s640/Odyssey_2_Composite_Mod_Kit_Gold_RetroFixes_1024x1024.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Tools: </b><br />
• Drill with 1/4” & 3mm drill bit<br />
• Ruler<br />
• Marker<br />
• Soldering iron, solder, and solder braid<br />
• X-Acto knife (optional)<br />
• Needle-nose pliers<br />
• Flat head screw driver (Adjustable wrench needed on some models)<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Installation:</span></b><br />
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First,<br />
Turn the console over and remove the 3 screws (or bolts). I have seen several different variations with the console. Separate the halves gently and carefully.<br />
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Most models will have the metal RF shielding as shown below (if not lucky you). De-soldering and removing this shield can be challenging<br />
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Before we can remove the RF shielding make sure to unplug all the input controllers, power cable and rf box. The old cables can be fragile, do not force anything. Note: <i>The large RF box as shown in lower left corner can be removed and discarded. If you leave it in-place do not plug it in after upgrade.</i><br />
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Also be careful with the old vintage ribbon as shown below. On most models it is easy to unplug. If you decide to leave it plugged be very careful while desoldering the RF shielding.<br />
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Desoldering Tip:<br />
The RF shielding is held by several surrounding solder points.<br />
I find it much easier to heat the old solder while simultaneously lifting the shielding as shown below. Do this for each tab surrounding the motherboard<br />
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Step 5:<br />
Once the shielding is removed we can solder in the kit. The soldering area is highlighted by the pink outline.<br />
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Next solder the included wire to the amp kit. The ribbon wire can be easily separated if snipped between each wire. Insert the wire into the top of the kit and solder from the bottom. Your results should look like the photo below.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YrCQMXFhEvw/Vwp6AzdM75I/AAAAAAAADtM/AXnvS_4LsIYhD4oHeqSTdsWGFiym6VdGw/s1600/Magnavox%2BOdyssey%2B2%2BComposite%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YrCQMXFhEvw/Vwp6AzdM75I/AAAAAAAADtM/AXnvS_4LsIYhD4oHeqSTdsWGFiym6VdGw/s640/Magnavox%2BOdyssey%2B2%2BComposite%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B8.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Next solder the inputs "IN" wires from the kit to the locations shown below.</div>
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KIT ID PINOUT: </div>
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5V = 5V POWER</div>
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VI = VIDEO IN</div>
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AI = AUDIO IN</div>
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G = GROUND / GRD</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QDcj1RLyraw/Vwp6AN_wbzI/AAAAAAAADtM/Ma7yYVhRcFQCeRb95D0KoW2R8-Q4bNvUA/s1600/Magnavox%2BOdyssey%2B2%2BComposite%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QDcj1RLyraw/Vwp6AN_wbzI/AAAAAAAADtM/Ma7yYVhRcFQCeRb95D0KoW2R8-Q4bNvUA/s640/Magnavox%2BOdyssey%2B2%2BComposite%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B5.jpg" width="640" /></a> <br />
The completed soldering should look like the photo below. Final install location of the kit is optional. I prefer using the foam tape and adhering it to the location shown. Make sure the surface is clean before sticking into place. <u>Make sure the metal contacts on the amp kit are not touching the motherboard.</u><br />
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If you decided to reinstall the bulky RF shielding (optional) be mindful of the location of kit and wires. A small slot or hole for wires might need to be added to the RF shielding. Personally I decided not to reinstall the RF shielding on my model.<br />
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Next we need to drill some hole for RCA jacks. Jack locations is best at the left hand side of the bottom shell. Follow the photo below for reference.<br />
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I find 15mm from the top lip is perfect RCA placement<br />
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Also 15mm spacing from each jack. You can make small marks with a sharpie marker. Drill small 3mm holes first. Then drill the final 1/4" holes.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K2cbIb5QtX0/Vwp6BJeVRnI/AAAAAAAADtM/Q5Ey3z9ohFE8MrlsUmtut6MJIT16SWWGA/s1600/Magnavox%2BOdyssey%2B2%2BComposite%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K2cbIb5QtX0/Vwp6BJeVRnI/AAAAAAAADtM/Q5Ey3z9ohFE8MrlsUmtut6MJIT16SWWGA/s640/Magnavox%2BOdyssey%2B2%2BComposite%2BUpgrade%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes%2B9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Example of Gold jacks installed.<br />
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Next we need to solder the "OUT" side of the kit to the RCA jacks.<br />
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<b>G = Ground connection for each ground tab on RCA jacks. (tear drop shaped metal pieces)</b><br />
<b>VO = Video Composite out, solders to yellow RCA jack.</b><br />
<b>AO = Audio Out, solders to both the Red and White RCA jack.</b><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6g_86ugtYCw/Vwp6B_0U5hI/AAAAAAAADtM/h1jut7Y_1z4blWmpm6kUGNTOJZl1ziZeQ/s1600/Odyssey%2B2%2BComposite%2BMod%2BUpgrade%2BAmp%2BKit%2BRetroFixes.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6g_86ugtYCw/Vwp6B_0U5hI/AAAAAAAADtM/h1jut7Y_1z4blWmpm6kUGNTOJZl1ziZeQ/s640/Odyssey%2B2%2BComposite%2BMod%2BUpgrade%2BAmp%2BKit%2BRetroFixes.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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After the RCA jacks are solders we are almost done :)<br />
Now we can plug in all the controller ports, ribbons and power switch. Note: If you decided to keep the RF box inside the console, do not plug it back into the motherboard.<br />
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<b>Color / Brightness Adjustments:</b><br />
If you do not like the final video output you can make adjustments via the dial shown below. I would suggest making these adjustments before assembling the device. <b>Though be very careful while powering on and operating a open console!</b><br />
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<b>Troubleshooting:</b><br />
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If your mod doesn’t work, go back and double-check your wiring. <br />
Also make sure your games and cartridge port is clean.
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<br />Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-4870815957936554752015-11-30T19:16:00.000-08:002017-10-10T06:37:47.232-07:00NES Composite Options 3D Printed Ports & More.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</a> <span id="goog_82725807"></span><span id="goog_82725808"></span><b>Why Upgrade?</b><br />
The NES Toploader was a great console but lacked quality composite video & quality sound. With this AV composite upgrade all Modern TVs and international users will be able to enjoy 8bit gaming. The video and Sound is crisp and clean. No static, fuzz or buzz.<b> </b><br />
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<b>Main Issues with the original NES RF video: </b><br />
Some modern HDTVs will not accept the aging RF video output. Overall vintage RF signals are losing the battle with modern Displays. RF video is also low quality because it combines all video and audio signals. <span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br />
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Purchasing:</b></span> I offer video kits for DIY installers and installation services <i><a href="http://store.retrofixes.com/collections/mod-kits-repair-parts/products/nintendo-nes-101-top-loader-installation-of-trrs-av-led-add-on-mod-service">here</a></i>.</span><br />
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<b>Installation Examples Below: </b><br />
There are a variety of Ports, Jacks and even custom 3D printed port available.<br />
Below I was show a photo of each install method. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--K6XzgoTNcs/VMgwDh2pbKI/AAAAAAAACEo/Uwc3iUnoGW0/s1600/av%2Bmod.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--K6XzgoTNcs/VMgwDh2pbKI/AAAAAAAACEo/Uwc3iUnoGW0/s320/av%2Bmod.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Standard RCA Jacks installed on NES shell. Advantage: Can use standard RCA cables. Easiest for DIY installers vs other options. Disadvantage: Holes are drilled in the case. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PcCcx-t91qo/VNjcbqsSzLI/AAAAAAAACJw/Vn2emQz-PDc/s1600/NES%2BTRRS%2BMOD.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PcCcx-t91qo/VNjcbqsSzLI/AAAAAAAACJw/Vn2emQz-PDc/s320/NES%2BTRRS%2BMOD.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
This is the TRRS 3.5mm jack to RCA femal cable. I also offer 6' gold plated cables with this upgrade. Advantages: No holes drilled in the case. Install looks factory and original. Disadvantage: Custom cable required but included with every install.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tBdPveNLMGo/VNjcV7DxmHI/AAAAAAAACJg/cZIbFvO9u04/s1600/NES%2BTRRS%2BMOD2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tBdPveNLMGo/VNjcV7DxmHI/AAAAAAAACJg/cZIbFvO9u04/s320/NES%2BTRRS%2BMOD2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Up-close view of TRRS 3.5mm jack.Very Clean and factory look. New port uses the original RF hole. This is my favorite install method and popular.<br />
Most economical solution for customers that want to preserve the case and not drill holes.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wWaViI4kv6Q/VWphCpV-2_I/AAAAAAAACX0/ZMIptNp9INs/s1600/NES%2BRCA%2B3D%2BMultiport%2BRetroFixes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wWaViI4kv6Q/VWphCpV-2_I/AAAAAAAACX0/ZMIptNp9INs/s320/NES%2BRCA%2B3D%2BMultiport%2BRetroFixes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Custom rear port made on a 3D printer. This item available if reguested (limited stock). <b>Advantages:</b> You can now have RCA jacks and not drill holes in the body. Clean factory look. <b>Disadvantages:</b> Will cost more than the standard RCA version above. Extra $30-$40? final prices have not been determined. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X8-TwL2f3Ow/VWomE-PBELI/AAAAAAAACWA/h1j0CwL7640/s1600/rgb_nes_rear_1024x1024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X8-TwL2f3Ow/VWomE-PBELI/AAAAAAAACWA/h1j0CwL7640/s320/rgb_nes_rear_1024x1024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Custom rear port made on a 3D printer. Fits Nintendo SNES + N64 style cables Normally reserved for RGB mods.<b> Advantages:</b> You can now have a Nintendo style AV port on your toploader. Clean factory look. This can output Svideo and RGB id fully modified. <b>Disadvantages:</b> None really. Extra $35 fee.<br />
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Other Issues worth Noting with Composite Mods:</h3>
Note: Famicoms and NES are infamous for "Jailbars" on the RF and AV video. The effect varies from consoles to consoles. With each upgrade I will reduce the Jailbars as much as possible. Keep in mind that most will have this slight effect on RF or AV. Some TV's will not display the effect, others do. The only sure way to reduce this 100% is full RGB upgrade.<br />
<br />Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-32161565904208654722015-11-30T15:27:00.000-08:002018-01-19T09:23:35.078-08:00NES RGB Mods Your Options & Common Questions<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: magenta; font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pLMB9DNLsH7L-AcuhBTK1q8_0qASxml_nAMiT5yYE-usjeEqYqxD9rM-lYw999xDhHDcpl4NjXJln-VaDGIxUflbqe9AhLNv23FJZ12nadu9P2Uu3W-PGWqmTEZ-bPdfBy2XQAxfCEeT/s1600/NES+Extra+Sound+Channel001.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pLMB9DNLsH7L-AcuhBTK1q8_0qASxml_nAMiT5yYE-usjeEqYqxD9rM-lYw999xDhHDcpl4NjXJln-VaDGIxUflbqe9AhLNv23FJZ12nadu9P2Uu3W-PGWqmTEZ-bPdfBy2XQAxfCEeT/s320/NES+Extra+Sound+Channel001.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></div>
Behold the Holy Grail of NES Mods! If want to know more about NESRGB installation options keep reading. I will add more information to this page as time allows.<br />
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If you have questions about RGB video quality please visit <i><a href="http://www.retrofixes.com/2015/02/rgb-upscalers-retro-gamers.html">this article</a></i>. NESRGB installation is currently offered for the AV Famicom, Classic NES FrontLoader or TopLoader. Prices & Options vary for each console.<br />
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<big><b>For ordering and installation visit our storepage <a href="http://retrofixes.myshopify.com/products/nintendo-nes-or-famicom-rgb-upgrade-serive"><i>here</i></a></b></big><br />
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<big><b>NESRGB Board Features:</b></big>
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<ul>
<li>Works with the original NES processor chip. Parts are no longer taken from Playcoice 10 arcades. </li>
<li>Outputs RGB, S-video (encoded from RGB), composite video (encoded from
RGB), and composite video (original from PPU). Component can be added for additional cost</li>
<li>Compatible with PAL and NTSC consoles (jumper selectable).</li>
<li>Color palette. Three palettes available, Natural, Improved, and Garish. The Natural palette has the same colors
as the original composite video output. </li>
</ul>
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<b>Frontloader Install option Examples:</b></h3>
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<b><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKR9WulDUKt2LxK4mcoD6yP1l5o7fdguInHNsoSEfRFuf6bMXnfUZk8feJtjY7OrDI5oYLO9XDSB_nKo0OOJUSwSTQsaQ73BBbX-uHnfslAoBNlWo3C08K4ccNn_3mS0DbAAPBSNJ0p0P-/s1600/RetroFixes_Custom_NES_Frontloader_MultiPort_1024x1024.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKR9WulDUKt2LxK4mcoD6yP1l5o7fdguInHNsoSEfRFuf6bMXnfUZk8feJtjY7OrDI5oYLO9XDSB_nKo0OOJUSwSTQsaQ73BBbX-uHnfslAoBNlWo3C08K4ccNn_3mS0DbAAPBSNJ0p0P-/s640/RetroFixes_Custom_NES_Frontloader_MultiPort_1024x1024.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><b>Palette switch options:</b></span> (changes color palettes on screen)<br />
-3 Position Color toggle switch usually placed at rear.<br />
-No switch / Fixed Color palette, set to normal <br />
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<span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><b>Video Output Connector options:</b></span><br />
-3D printed multiout connector SNES/N64 style. Outputs Composite, Svideo, and RGB. Made for Toploader or Frontlaoder. Uses common SNES/N64 style cables.<br />
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<b> </b><span style="color: red;"><b> </b></span><br />
<span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><b>Audio options:</b></span><br />
-Improved Dual Mono Right and Left Channel. This selection has the best overall sound and customer satisfaction.<br />
-Faux Stereo: NES CPU Channels are separated to left and right speaker. (<i>I think dual mono sounds better</i>)<br />
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<span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><b>Other Add-Ons & Features:</b></span><br />
-Region Free upgrade (for frontloader NES)<br />
-Check and adjust 72pin or "Blinking Light Win" replacement can be installed. The BLW device will eliminate all future 72pin game reading issues.<br />
-LED Power Light or LED color change for frontloaders.<br />
-Full case cleaning. I can make most consoles look new again!<br />
-Have a custom request? Let's discuss it.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Is your Head spinning? Need a simpler ordering method? Try this. </b></span><br />
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<span style="color: magenta; font-size: large;"><b>Common NES TopLoader Order:</b></span><br />
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<li><b>Power LED</b></li>
<li><b>Enhanced Dual Mono</b></li>
<li><b>Custom Multiport</b></li>
<li><b>3 Palette switch</b></li>
<li><b>Case Cleaning and & 72 pin check & adjust</b></li>
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<span style="color: magenta; font-size: large;"><b>Common Famicom AV Order:</b></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4BdSNh9B_4w/VXO_ChPptRI/AAAAAAAACYk/yHVhx44-Rrs/s1600/av_famicom_rgb_mod_retrofixes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4BdSNh9B_4w/VXO_ChPptRI/AAAAAAAACYk/yHVhx44-Rrs/s320/av_famicom_rgb_mod_retrofixes.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<li><b>Power LED</b></li>
<li><b>Case Cleaning and & 72 pin check & adjust.</b></li>
<li><b>These famicom comes with built in multiports! RGB,Svideo, composite can be channeled the the multiport. </b></li>
<li><b>Overall cheapest method for RGB NES vs other models </b></li>
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<span style="color: magenta; font-size: large;"><b>Common NES Frontloader Order:</b></span><br />
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<span style="color: magenta; font-size: large;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pLMB9DNLsH7L-AcuhBTK1q8_0qASxml_nAMiT5yYE-usjeEqYqxD9rM-lYw999xDhHDcpl4NjXJln-VaDGIxUflbqe9AhLNv23FJZ12nadu9P2Uu3W-PGWqmTEZ-bPdfBy2XQAxfCEeT/s1600/NES+Extra+Sound+Channel001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0pLMB9DNLsH7L-AcuhBTK1q8_0qASxml_nAMiT5yYE-usjeEqYqxD9rM-lYw999xDhHDcpl4NjXJln-VaDGIxUflbqe9AhLNv23FJZ12nadu9P2Uu3W-PGWqmTEZ-bPdfBy2XQAxfCEeT/s320/NES+Extra+Sound+Channel001.jpg" width="320" /></a></b></span></div>
<ul>
<li><b>Enhanced Dual Mono.</b></li>
<li><b>Multiport (outputs RGB,Svideo &Composite)</b></li>
<li><b>3 Palette switch.</b></li>
<li><b>72 pin check & adjust. Or "blinking Light Win" can be installed.</b></li>
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<b></b><br />Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-63464661952835457552015-09-25T15:06:00.000-07:002015-10-07T07:38:19.939-07:00Expansion Plans for 2016 - Macintosh, Apple IIe, C64s & More<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Many new services are on the horizon for RetroFixes. The workshop size is increasing Oct-Nov, nearly 10x extra square footage. After many customer request I will now be offering services for vintage computers. The early Apples and C64s have amazing game libraries.<br />
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You can visit the store page <a href="http://retrofixes.myshopify.com/products/macintosh-board-re-cap-service-more-coming-soon"><i>here </i></a>and signup for future notifications.<br />
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Early Macintosh & C64 restoration and repair services will be offered in early 2016. Prices will vary with complexity and capacitor count. This includes MAC Logic Boards, PSU and Analog Board.<br />
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<span style="color: magenta;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">Quick Run Down of New Services & Parts:</span></b></span><br />
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<ul>
<li><b>Vintage Macintosh Keyboard, Floppy Drive and Mouse cleaning & repair services will be offered.</b></li>
<li><b>Data Recovering and Backup of Vintage Apple Hard Drives & 3.5 / 5" Floppies</b></li>
<li><b>Hard to Find Boot Disc and Diagnostic software will be offered
for all Apple IIe and Macintosh 512k, Plus, SE & Classic models.</b><b> </b></li>
<li><b>Restoration and capacitor replacement all various Apple IIe and Macintosh logic and Analog boards.</b></li>
<li><b>C64 Repairs will be offered.</b></li>
<li><b>Restored C64 computers will be in the Store in early 2016.</b></li>
<li><b>A line of computer repair parts will be offered.</b></li>
<li><b>An expanding line of Retro Gaming upgrade kits are in development. </b></li>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Restoring the boards within the aging MACs is a great preventive maintenance measure. Failing and leaking caps can destroy motherboard traces and ICs. Replacing the caps and cleaning the boards will preserve the MAC for future generations.</span><br />
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Most Customers will be able to remove the boards and ship them here.
Otherwise shipping rates are much higher for 20lb Macs vs 1lb
motherboard. Removal guides are available on YouTube and many other
sites. <br />
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Old capacitors will be removed and solder pads will be fully cleaned.
Board will be checked for capacitor leakage and cleaned. Anti corrosion
solution will be added to ports, jacks and slots.<br />
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<b>Video (not mine) demonstrating early MAC games. </b></div>
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Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-67389445638685985512015-07-21T17:32:00.000-07:002016-07-13T14:11:25.824-07:00PXL2000 Pixel Movies on Audio Cassette + New Upgrades & Mods<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s_MG8J3hq3k/Va7a3ltSjOI/AAAAAAAACvA/KCLMz3hpV8Y/s1600/PXL2000%2BHack%2BMod%2BUpgrade%2BRCA%2BBent%2B2%2BRetroFixes.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s_MG8J3hq3k/Va7a3ltSjOI/AAAAAAAACvA/KCLMz3hpV8Y/s320/PXL2000%2BHack%2BMod%2BUpgrade%2BRCA%2BBent%2B2%2BRetroFixes.JPG" width="320" /></a><b><span style="font-size: large;">Background: </span></b>PXL-2000 (PixelVision) was released in 1987 and used normal audio cassettes to record video and audio. It was the only video system to be developed by a toy company.<br />
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The Pixelvision camera records in low-resolution, black and white. The cassette audio tape holds 11 minutes of footage by moving the tape at a high speed. Despite its lack of commercial success, the camera became popular with avant-garde artists and world famous Sonic Youth.<br />
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<b>Initially sold for $179 ($372 in 2015 dollars) and was later reduced to $100 ($208 in 2015 dollars) </b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b>Upgrades & Upcoming Services:</b></span> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Much like the early gaming consoles the PXL2000 only offered RF video output. RF video signals are on a losing battle with Modern HDTVs. Most modern TVs will not accept or recognize the RF signal. This can now be repaired with composite outputs. </span></span><br />
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<li><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Composite output upgrade. </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">I can install RCA jacks or a 3.5mm port with RCA cable adapter.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">New Belts have been sourced for the Cassette drive. Most cassette units can be restored to original operating condition.</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Add-On Toggle switches knobs: Adds effects while filming.</span></span> </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Recording directly to cassettes is <u>not</u> necessary. The composite video can be sent directly to a PC with video capture card, Media Centers, VCRs, Tivos, etc.</span></span></li>
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<span style="color: magenta;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">PXL2000 Tape to Digital Backup Service:</span></b></span><br />
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<li><span style="font-size: small;">Can backup any PXL2000 tape to a digital file on CD or DVD.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;">We can follow any order you specify and can combine multiple tapes together.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">Can be converted to multiple video formats.</span></span></span><b><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></b></span></li>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Stay Tuned the PXL2000 Restorations and Upgrade services will hit the store later this summer. </span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span class="mw-headline" id="Notable_uses">Notable uses of the PXL2000</span></span></b><br />
The PXL-2000 was used by Richard Linklater in his 1991 debut film Slacker. The roughly two-minute performance art scene is shot entirely in PixelVision.<br />
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Peggy Ahwesh's Strange Weather (1993) was shot entirely on a PXL-2000. This video, which follows several crack heads in Florida, relies heavily on the camera's portability to maintain an intimate presence. The black-and-white blurred footage paints a hauntingly spectral portrait of life in poverty and addiction.<br />
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Video artist Sadie Benning is among the most critically acclaimed pioneers of the PXL-2000, one of which was given to her by her father James Benning around the age of 15. Benning's early video diary works gained popularity in art circles, earning her a lasting reputation as an innovator, with an important presence in video art.<br />
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Michael Almereyda used the camera for several of his films: Another Girl Another Planet (1992) and his short Aliens (1993) were shot with it entirely, and it was used for point of view shots of the title character in Nadja (1994), and by the title character to make video diaries in Hamlet (2000).<br />
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The camera has also been used for several music videos, most notably, Mote by Sonic Youth and Black Grease by the Black Angels.<br />
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Artist John Humphrey's notorious 2003 video Pee Wee Goes to Prison is shot on a PXL-2000, employing a cast of dolls and other toys to stage the imaginary trial, incarceration, and eventual pardoning (by newly elected president Jesse Ventura) of Pee Wee Herman for the sale of Yohimbe.<br />
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The PXL-2000 was used by the characters Maggie and Jamie in the 2010 film Love and Other Drugs, although the black and white "footage" from the camera is shown at full film resolution.Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-31031682619517377482015-07-03T13:03:00.000-07:002015-07-06T09:31:51.421-07:00SNES PlayStation Prototype does Exist! (maybe)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tJ_zNUSrXqc/VZg6JSj34PI/AAAAAAAACj8/nFR7epCflqk/s1600/PlayStation%2BSNES%2BPrototype%2Btop%2Bretrofixes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tJ_zNUSrXqc/VZg6JSj34PI/AAAAAAAACj8/nFR7epCflqk/s320/PlayStation%2BSNES%2BPrototype%2Btop%2Bretrofixes.jpg" width="315" /></a></div>
There's an astounding split in gaming history that many retro-gamers may not know about. The short lived collaboration between Nintendo and Sony that ultimately made them heated competitors.<br />
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A prototype Sony PlayStation SNES - an ultra-rare piece of gaming history - has been discovered and photographed today! Often refereed to as the SNES-CD system. It has not been officially verified that the device is a genuine prototype, but it certainly appears that it is. 1990s Developers from the Sony have chimed in and claimed this is authentic. I will update this article as things unfold.<br />
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After several years of development with Sony the plans fell through. Nintendo opted to partner with Philips instead (major failure the CD-I). While that deal faltered, Sony continued with the development of its CD-compatible PlayStation as a separate device. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This cart has "demo use" handwritten Japanese</td></tr>
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Most articles are claiming 200 of these were original made. Not True! The 200 prototype thing is an old myth. Very recently a 90's SONY employee stated there are only 5 in existence and 2 of those are in private hands. The other one is this very early unique prototype. The rest are apparently at Sony headquarters. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HPcVA6e4xeg/VZlXrn4wb4I/AAAAAAAAClA/hJECF_73yCU/s1600/SNES%2BPlaystation%2Bprototype%2BRear%2BCart%2BRetrofixes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="468" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HPcVA6e4xeg/VZlXrn4wb4I/AAAAAAAAClA/hJECF_73yCU/s640/SNES%2BPlaystation%2Bprototype%2BRear%2BCart%2BRetrofixes.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The owner of the device posted photos on Imgur (user DanDiebold) Terry Diebold, Dan's father, worked as a maintenance man at Advanta Corporation from 2000-2009. Olaf Olafsson was president of the company. Olafsson also happened to be the former CEO of Sony Interactive Entertainment that created the PlayStation. It was during Olafsson's time that Sony worked on the Super NES to play CD games.<br />
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<i>"</i><i>My dad worked for a company, apparently one of the guys he used to work with, I think his name was Olaf, used to work at Nintendo and when my dad’s company went bankrupt” </i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The owner also has a CD and a cartridge, but doesn't know what's on either.</td></tr>
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<i>"When they went bankrupt the company ordered my dad to throw a bunch of stuff out," </i>Dan Diebold said.<i> "As he was cleaning out the rooms he found this box."</i> Inside, what appeared to be the prototype for the SNES Play Station.<i> </i><br />
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<i>"He kept a bunch of stuff from there,"</i> Dan Diebold said. <i>"My dad has tons of old systems and stuff. He keeps everything."</i><br />
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Dan says he hasn't tried turning the system on yet because its missing the power cord, but that he plans on buying a cord that will work with it soon to test it out. The system also has a cartridge and a CD. He has no idea what's on either.<br />
As for the future of the system, Diebold says he's not exactly sure what he's going to do with it yet.<br />
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<i>"At the moment, I don't know,"</i> he said. <i>"I'm sure my dad would think about selling it because he's pretty broke."</i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SNES Controller with Playstation Logo!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Official US Patent Photos</td></tr>
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I manged to track down an original US patent photo and one other early image from Nintendo. The similarities of DanDiebold photos are striking. This is either the best looking fake in gaming history or an historic find.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cU3_-Bz1d4U/VZg6JRVhtII/AAAAAAAACkE/-ctlm_97L-0/s1600/PlayStation%2BSNES%2BPrototype%2Bstock%2Bretrofixes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="409" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cU3_-Bz1d4U/VZg6JRVhtII/AAAAAAAACkE/-ctlm_97L-0/s640/PlayStation%2BSNES%2BPrototype%2Bstock%2Bretrofixes.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unreleased Prototype Pictures from early 1990s</td></tr>
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Whether it still works is unknown, as a power cable needs to be sourced that will allow the prototype to be tested. Hopefully he will locate a trustworthy tech (me? I wish!) before attempting to power-on this console.<br />
I will update this article as the news unfolds.<br />
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<b>Below is a video from the owner and links to current discussions.</b><br />
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<b>Reddit Post: <i><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/gaming/comments/3bwyj0/it_took_forever_but_i_finally_got_some_pics_of_my/">Here</a></i></b><br />
<b>AssemblerGames: <i><a href="http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/nintendo-snes-playstation-finally-uncovered.57166/">Here</a></i></b><br />
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<i> <b>Official Video from Owner</b></i></div>
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<br />Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-8517042500904968492015-06-08T15:34:00.000-07:002016-03-29T16:24:55.964-07:00My Console ships to the Oakland Museum of California.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Several people asked me about this event. I figured it was time to post an article. This originally took place back in early 2014.<br />
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When the Oakland Museum of California contacted me I was surprised. The museum was planning a major exhibition, Super Awesome: Art and Giant
Robot. This exhibit would be featuring art, toys, interactive games and
more. Coinciding with the 20th anniversary of <i>Giant Robot </i>the groundbreaking alternative art and culture magazine.<br />
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The museum was looking for a working original Famicom for their exhibit. Luckily I had exactly what they needed. I had recently restored an original 1983 Famicom console. This console had newly installed power caps, voltage regulator, restored Mic and controllers. An absolute perfect Famicom for play & display.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hand-on gaming center</td></tr>
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The museum wanted a hands-on gaming center for visitors and consoles for display. We discussed several methods of properly installing a 30+ year old console for reliable game play. The gaming center would be part of a much larger exhibit. Artworks in the exhibition represent a range of mediums, including mural
art, sculpture, illustration, portraiture, large-scale installations,
graphic novels, photography, and more.<br />
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In addition, the exhibition will feature Giant Robot magazines and ephemera, vinyl toys, custom vending machines.<br />
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<b><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HAtq8ROYJCA/VXYN8y2u1pI/AAAAAAAACdM/pDd6DTqaKgM/s1600/famicom%2Bretrofixes.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HAtq8ROYJCA/VXYN8y2u1pI/AAAAAAAACdM/pDd6DTqaKgM/s320/famicom%2Bretrofixes.jpg" width="320" /></a>Artists include:</b> Ako Castuera, Sean Chao, David Choe, Luke Chueh,
Hamburger Eyes, Andrew Hem, James Jean, kozyndan, Masakatsu Sashie,
Shizu Saldamando, Rob Sato, Amy Sol, Deth P Sun, and Adrian Tomine<br />
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<i>“Woven throughout the exhibition is a sense of how Giant Robot
celebrates Asian and Asian American cultural identity with playful
irreverence,”</i> says Adams in her curatorial statement. <i>“The voices
of the artists highlighted in the show add their own perspective,
further complicating the story and enriching the experience.”</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z6AwbhkXEC4/VXYNqo4XLaI/AAAAAAAACcU/Q_rs2i0Er-A/s1600/RETROFIXES%2BFAMICOM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="224" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z6AwbhkXEC4/VXYNqo4XLaI/AAAAAAAACcU/Q_rs2i0Er-A/s320/RETROFIXES%2BFAMICOM.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Famicom inside a Famicom Car Paradox </td></tr>
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My favorite part of the planned exhibit is the <u>Famicom styled Scion XB</u>. Designed by Giant Robot publisher and editor Eric Nakamura. Columnist and gearhead Len Higa. It sports the old Famicom colors. Each seat has its own NES gamepad, and the car's headlights project the game on any convenient wall. The back holds a Famicom and LCD panel and additional rear projector.<br />
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SuperAwesome explores how these artists, their artwork, and the magazine’s community exposed wider audiences to the diversity and complexity of Asian, trans-Pacific cultures and identity, and helped to bring it into mainstream popular culture.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Overall I think this was the coolest exhibit during 2014! I was honored to be a part of this special event. Watch the videos below for more information.</b></span><br />
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<span style="color: magenta;">Watch the Famicom Car!</span></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/0tXU3ZKpQmM/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0tXU3ZKpQmM?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe> </div>
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<span style="color: magenta;">More On SuperAwesome: Art and Giant Robot</span></div>
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<br />Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-45530873947399788852015-06-07T18:51:00.000-07:002018-01-19T09:23:39.013-08:00SNES Jr RGB Amp Kit Installation<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8kR1RXFcOD4/VlcfB0qCduI/AAAAAAAADAo/wxl8krcIsfA7bnozH8J5HQxCBggmfnJIgCPcB/s1600/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BMOD%2BRetroFixes%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8kR1RXFcOD4/VlcfB0qCduI/AAAAAAAADAo/wxl8krcIsfA7bnozH8J5HQxCBggmfnJIgCPcB/s320/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BMOD%2BRetroFixes%2B1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: large;">SAFETY:</span><br />
<span style="font-weight: normal;">Please take proper safety
precautions when dealing with electronics and soldering. Have proper
ventilation and a clean work area. Research basic soldering technique if
in doubt. I cannot be held responsible for any damages that could
occur to you or your equipment while following the
procedures present on this Website.</span> <span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><br />
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>This page is being overhauled. Some of the pictures are from older RGB AMP revisions. Do not worry. The installation instructions below will work with the current RetroFixes RGB Kit.</b></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: large;">Getting Started:</span></span><br />
<b>What you need:<br />
- Basic soldering skills!</b><br />
<b>- The 4.5mm tool that opens the SNES (<i>available in the store</i>)</b><br />
<b>- Philips head screwdriver.</b><br />
<b>- Soldering iron & solder.</b><br />
<b>- Wire Strippers </b><br />
<b>- Small piece of electrical tape.</b><br />
<b>- Small wire snipers. </b><br />
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<span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf">Read this Awesome "Soldering is Easy – Comic" for Basic 101s of soldering click here.</a></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt96lilsU01LkPLh9DQvpn6E051CutWUGfoObeEprTLyzNVD7dlhfEusiIw58baRB1hfhnbjkzhXmypV2CHTie2LvyMFDRJdxr4yKqWhkdMtmtTY6ScsDX4PVN3HmrrYB3vOISOiQKyjim/s1600/RetroFixes+SNES+RGB+CSync.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="283" data-original-width="300" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt96lilsU01LkPLh9DQvpn6E051CutWUGfoObeEprTLyzNVD7dlhfEusiIw58baRB1hfhnbjkzhXmypV2CHTie2LvyMFDRJdxr4yKqWhkdMtmtTY6ScsDX4PVN3HmrrYB3vOISOiQKyjim/s200/RetroFixes+SNES+RGB+CSync.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: magenta;"><b>RGB Kit Amp Pads & Jumpers</b></span><br />
<b>R=Red</b><br />
<b>G=Green<br />
B=Blue</b><br />
<b>Y= Luma </b><br />
<b>C= Chroma</b><br />
<b>CS=CSNYC</b><br />
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<b>TTL Sync Jumper: </b><br />
This jumper will set the sync type. My kit will ship with the Jumper "open" and is attenuated for 75 ohm Csync. <br />
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If your cable attenuates TTL C-Sync to 75Ohm please solder the TTL jumper closed. Shorting the TTL jumper will restore the C-Sync signal back to a TTL logic level.<br />
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<b><u><span style="color: red;">Before doing anything unplug the consoles & turn the power switch "ON" This will discharge the internal capacitors. </span></u></b><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Installation: </span></b><br />
Start by removing all 4.5 bit screws from the bottom side of console.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hnKhxdREBfE/VlcfCA-cxSI/AAAAAAAADAs/MvJhhI_Zwmg/s1600/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BMOD%2BRetroFixes%2B2.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="518" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hnKhxdREBfE/VlcfCA-cxSI/AAAAAAAADAs/MvJhhI_Zwmg/s640/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BMOD%2BRetroFixes%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next Remove all visible screws from the motherboard. Make note of different screws sizes, the larger silver screws secure the game slot and rear multiport. All other screws surround the board.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4yKrhgU9kE4/VlcfCYpjlmI/AAAAAAAADA8/Ob4ehojjUeg/s1600/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BMOD%2BRetroFixes%2B3.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="494" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4yKrhgU9kE4/VlcfCYpjlmI/AAAAAAAADA8/Ob4ehojjUeg/s640/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BMOD%2BRetroFixes%2B3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now it is time to prep the RetroFixes RGB amp. To insure 100% reliability I prefer adding a piece of electrical tape to the rear of the RGB amp. Do not skip this step! <i>(example photo from different board design)</i><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-09AyAKDYTxc/VlZmhxpkt1I/AAAAAAAAC-Q/BN_55ugruz8/s1600/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-09AyAKDYTxc/VlZmhxpkt1I/AAAAAAAAC-Q/BN_55ugruz8/s640/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Locate these areas on bottom of motherboard.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qVntRxANzSY/VlcfCysD7-I/AAAAAAAADBM/2j2krzCLanM/s1600/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BMOD%2BRetroFixes%2B4.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qVntRxANzSY/VlcfCysD7-I/AAAAAAAADBM/2j2krzCLanM/s640/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BMOD%2BRetroFixes%2B4.jpg" width="522" /></a></div>
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Before placing the RGB kit on the motherboard: Make sure to trim these pins and remove the solder glob (if required)<br />
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Note: Some SNES consoles will have two ground pins soldered together. If your console has this extra solder remove it before placing the amp into place. You can either snip the solder away with snipers or remove the solder with a desoldering hand pump <br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NjEikHK20Yg/WPEzI9tMK4I/AAAAAAAAEEk/UuZ6bmQR6GMhBtUbE1vxVd9aaCPbTC4LwCPcB/s1600/remove%2Bblob.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="382" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NjEikHK20Yg/WPEzI9tMK4I/AAAAAAAAEEk/UuZ6bmQR6GMhBtUbE1vxVd9aaCPbTC4LwCPcB/s640/remove%2Bblob.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, solder the amp to the multiout pins. Simply solder all the 12 pins as shown below. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr0XLCEzY79slXjTY9CfVWg8Zf0gmFpLsSCeK6xh-bc8zhhD7gEJjMKfItKtIqs2xQGvbJeQqBue3ZmGCcXduxH9JNX80sZDzMNcwc1dFWY8ogUa-_F9i3pp6o1b0Y-NlHPOOGXGOzrKrz/s1600/retrofixes+amp+snes+rgb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="548" data-original-width="800" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr0XLCEzY79slXjTY9CfVWg8Zf0gmFpLsSCeK6xh-bc8zhhD7gEJjMKfItKtIqs2xQGvbJeQqBue3ZmGCcXduxH9JNX80sZDzMNcwc1dFWY8ogUa-_F9i3pp6o1b0Y-NlHPOOGXGOzrKrz/s640/retrofixes+amp+snes+rgb.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Note: I ship kits with 26awg wire. Measure and cut the 26awg wires to proper length and solder them to the corresponding pads on the Amp. Strip the wire and slightly twist the strands. Next add a small amount of solder to wire tip. This is called "tinning" your wire. Very important step and makes you installation cleaner and more reliable.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qjvp8nXjrXs/VlZy2BdQDwI/AAAAAAAAC_M/Apl_qrX5A2E/s1600/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BAmp%2BMod%2BKit%2BDIY%2BRetroFixes%2B15.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qjvp8nXjrXs/VlZy2BdQDwI/AAAAAAAAC_M/Apl_qrX5A2E/s640/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BAmp%2BMod%2BKit%2BDIY%2BRetroFixes%2B15.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Next, locate this spot on the motherboard:<br />
This location is very important, study it closely before soldering. CS, Red , Green, Blue are found here. <span style="color: red;"><u><b><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jXHI1cLsfxA/VlcfDf_1CeI/AAAAAAAADBU/iyjnZucz0Bo_y6q_Xg-PiXJnbXWcZDyAACPcB/s1600/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BMOD%2BRetroFixes%2B7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jXHI1cLsfxA/VlcfDf_1CeI/AAAAAAAADBU/iyjnZucz0Bo_y6q_Xg-PiXJnbXWcZDyAACPcB/s640/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BMOD%2BRetroFixes%2B7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Example of wires soldered to amp. Make your wires short as possible. Honestly my wires could be a tad shorter in the example pic.<b> </b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAf6Bri8r8ec2ItnKpSH4PLEl-LanW5-ktNrimvVtUpXkxIoWJzTpDkKPwz4XxcnMFQeswuAynb-1yXx85bce04QeXHaI7e863EaHqiSuKuLzXDmubdrtRqaeXHpNs4z9rxZTdsvsNIjcN/s1600/RetroFixes_SNES_RGB_CSync+7374.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="653" data-original-width="1024" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAf6Bri8r8ec2ItnKpSH4PLEl-LanW5-ktNrimvVtUpXkxIoWJzTpDkKPwz4XxcnMFQeswuAynb-1yXx85bce04QeXHaI7e863EaHqiSuKuLzXDmubdrtRqaeXHpNs4z9rxZTdsvsNIjcN/s640/RetroFixes_SNES_RGB_CSync+7374.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><b>For Svideo install: (C & Y Pads)</b></span></span><br />
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Locate the SNES "S-RGB" chip located on top near the Heat-shield. Removing the Heat-shield is necessary and it is held down with 3 screws. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YuxO7MKV1Bg/VlZy3l83nAI/AAAAAAAAC_4/WMgxtnfye-I/s1600/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BAmp%2BMod%2BKit%2BDIY%2BRetroFixes7.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YuxO7MKV1Bg/VlZy3l83nAI/AAAAAAAAC_4/WMgxtnfye-I/s640/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BAmp%2BMod%2BKit%2BDIY%2BRetroFixes7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Locate IC Pins 12, 17 & on the chip. Use the photo as a guide. </b></div>
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<b>Pin17 = Y (luma)</b></div>
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<b>Pin 12 = C (chroma)</b></div>
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Make sure to guide your wires to the left side (shortest path) and wrap around and under to the RGB amp. <i>Caution: When reinstalling the heatshield do not crush your wires.</i></div>
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Solder your 2 wires to the Y & C pads on the SNES AMP.</div>
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<b>That's the basics of installing RGB amps. Make sure to reassemble the heatshield & RF shielding and all the SNES motherboard screws. <u>Pay careful attention to wire locations and do not crush your wires during assembly.</u></b><br />
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<b>Test and Enjoy. If you have any issues we are here to help.</b><i> </i>Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-59302591191966598492015-06-07T17:55:00.000-07:002019-10-11T14:04:54.471-07:00N64 Upgrade RGB Amp Kit Installation Instructions<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cp81LD2aleA/VlZi8kG9kZI/AAAAAAAAC8M/tbQzjDduHWs/s1600/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cp81LD2aleA/VlZi8kG9kZI/AAAAAAAAC8M/tbQzjDduHWs/s320/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="color: red; font-size: small;">SAFETY:</span><br />
<span style="font-weight: normal;">Please take proper safety
precautions when dealing with electronics and soldering. Have proper
ventilation and a clean work area. Research basic soldering technique if
in doubt. I cannot be held responsible for any damages that could
occur to you or your equipment while following the
procedures present on this Website.</span> <span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Why Upgrade?</b><br />
The N64 did not output RGB when released. Once upgraded the N64 puts out the best analog video signal possible.<br />
<br />
<b>Special Note: </b>Some of the images in this guide show older kits. The install method is the same.<br />
This RGB amp only works for the early N64 consoles. Look for serial numbers starting with NS1. These early model contain compatible mothers boards marked NUS-01, NUS-02, NUS-03 & NUS-04<br />
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<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: magenta;">This Kit can be purchased from my store <a href="http://store.retrofixes.com/collections/upgrade-diy-kits/products/snes-jr-n64-rgb-upgrade-kit"><i>here</i></a></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Supplies Needed:</span></b></span><br />
- N64 RGB cable.<br />
- Small piece of electrical tape. <br />
- Soldering skills!<br />
- The 4.5mm bit that opens the console(I sell these in my store)<br />
- Philips head screwdriver<br />
- Soldering iron & solder<br />
<br />
<a href="http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf"><span style="font-size: medium;">Read this Awesome "Soldering is Easy – Comic" for Basic 101s of soldering click here.</span></a><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Installation:</span></b><br />
Start by removing all 4.5 bit screws from the bottom side of console. There are six total. Also remove the jumper pack before separated console shell.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6P_FBn7sIJ8/VlZi9T0fxuI/AAAAAAAAC8g/zJpdEVMgHf8/s1600/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6P_FBn7sIJ8/VlZi9T0fxuI/AAAAAAAAC8g/zJpdEVMgHf8/s640/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B14.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next,
Remove all screws around the motherboard as shown in photo (red dots only). Make note of different
screws sizes and keep them organized. View my photo for reference.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V426U-Vjtwc/VlZla-T7CDI/AAAAAAAAC98/EgVxdlTm-sY/s1600/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V426U-Vjtwc/VlZla-T7CDI/AAAAAAAAC98/EgVxdlTm-sY/s640/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now it is
time to prep the RGB amp. The back side of the board has no
exposed conductive metal. Though to insure reliability I prefer adding a
piece of electrical tape to the section shown in the photo.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-09AyAKDYTxc/VlZmhxpkt1I/AAAAAAAAC-Q/BN_55ugruz8/s1600/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-09AyAKDYTxc/VlZmhxpkt1I/AAAAAAAAC-Q/BN_55ugruz8/s640/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, Place the RGB Amp over the multi-out pins. Make sure it
slides over all the pins.<br />
For the sake of simplicity, solder all the pins down to the pcb. In the near future I will update which pins are actually active in the circuit.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WFW0QNuQpsA/VlZi_IP5GtI/AAAAAAAAC9g/Pur7xjKcGFM/s1600/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WFW0QNuQpsA/VlZi_IP5GtI/AAAAAAAAC9g/Pur7xjKcGFM/s640/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next, locate this spot on the motherboard:<br />
This location is very important, study it closely before soldering. Each hole is labeled on the motherboard. <b>R8=Red output , R9=Green output, R10=Blue output</b>. If this location is not on your motherboard you do not have an early NS1 N64.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qcUk0hdoFm8/VlZi88o1E6I/AAAAAAAAC8c/F6M0ZncQlso/s1600/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qcUk0hdoFm8/VlZi88o1E6I/AAAAAAAAC8c/F6M0ZncQlso/s640/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Soldering hookup wire:</b> Measure
and cut the wires to proper length and solder them to the corresponding
pads on the Amp. Most prefer to strip the wire and slightly twist the
strands. Next add a small amount of solder to wire tip. Trim wire tips to very small 2-3mm in bare length. Using long wires in the R8/R9/R10 vias will cause malfunction and touch another IC chip. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SDfwYnqVIKU/VlZi-t1tYoI/AAAAAAAAC9E/xo2yeoAOmd4/s1600/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SDfwYnqVIKU/VlZi-t1tYoI/AAAAAAAAC9E/xo2yeoAOmd4/s640/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Do this to every wire before soldering to it's location. This is called
"tinning" your wire. Very important step and makes you installation
cleaner and more reliable.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qjvp8nXjrXs/VlZy2BdQDwI/AAAAAAAAC_M/Apl_qrX5A2E/s1600/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BAmp%2BMod%2BKit%2BDIY%2BRetroFixes%2B15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qjvp8nXjrXs/VlZy2BdQDwI/AAAAAAAAC_M/Apl_qrX5A2E/s640/SNES%2BJr%2BRGB%2BAmp%2BMod%2BKit%2BDIY%2BRetroFixes%2B15.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Solder each wire to the locations shown. Beware of large blobs of solder, work patiently.<br />
Avoid long leads and do not allow uninsulated wire to touch surrounding parts on the motherboard.<br />
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Next add a small amount of solder to each RGB pad on the pcb amp.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y55iMfn7UNc/VlZi-BZtBHI/AAAAAAAAC9I/jBA9ERA3a2Q/s1600/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y55iMfn7UNc/VlZi-BZtBHI/AAAAAAAAC9I/jBA9ERA3a2Q/s640/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Next, solder each R/G/B wire to the corresponding amp pad. Keep the wire tips short to avoid hitting the metal RF shield when replaced.<b> </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Amp Pads Explained</b><br />
<b>R=Red Input</b><br />
<b>G=Green Inout<br />B=Blue</b><br />
<b>Y= Luma (Ignore, only </b><b><b>relevant </b></b><b>on SNES Svideo enabled amps)</b><br />
<b>C= Chromo (Ignore, only </b><b><b>relevant </b>on SNES Svideo enabled amps)</b><br />
<b>CS=CSNYC </b><b>(Ignore, only relevant on SNES installs)</b><br />
<br />
<b>When finished your installation should look
like this. </b><br />
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Now it is time to replace the bottom metal shielding. The Amp is very slim and designed to rest beneath the edge of the shielding as seen in the photo. <i>Make sure your wires are soldering with short tips and not touching the underside of metal shielding. If the shielding is hitting the amp or wire you can gently bend the shielding tab out of the way. </i><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-udkcaYNbaUI/VlZqJVpLfzI/AAAAAAAAC-s/h0Jr-HyXUgU/s1600/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-udkcaYNbaUI/VlZqJVpLfzI/AAAAAAAAC-s/h0Jr-HyXUgU/s640/N64%2BRGB%2BMod%2BDIY%2BKIT%2BAMP%2BRetroFixes%2B19.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Remember, the memory module has to be plugged in, or the N64 will not boot. </i><br />
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Done! Reassemble your console and start testing some games!<br />
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<br />
<b>Scart Cables: </b><br />
<ul style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">
<li>Works great with <a href="https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/packapunch-range/N64-NTSC-RGB-Modified-PACKAPUNCH-PRO-RGB-SCART-CABLE/NINTENDO-64-NTSC-PACKAPUNCH-PRO-RGB-SCART-CABLE">PACKAPUNCH PRO RGB SCART</a> or Sync on Luma cables <em><a href="https://retro-access.com/collections/super-nintendo/products/super-nintendo-snes-rgb-n64-sync-on-luma-rgb-scart-lead-shielded-grounded-cable?variant=45852868371&aff=5">here</a>. Other cables/options are available just ask.</em></li>
</ul>
<br />
Note: N64 motherboard revisions NUS-CPU-01 or NUS-CPU-02 (and most -03’s), have csync routed to the multiout.<br />
<br />
Please contact me for more information on using Csync on NUS-CPU-04 motherboards. Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4494498437533304450.post-88356135248925116342015-06-06T13:16:00.000-07:002020-04-09T08:45:14.482-07:00ColecoVision Composite Upgrade Kit Install Guide<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Step-by-step guide for <u>NTSC</u> ColecoVision Upgrade Kit.</span></span></span></b></div>
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;">These consoles do have large capacitors inside and they need to be discharged before doing repaires or upgrades. Otherwise, you may receive a slight shock. To avoid such a situation, please leave your ColecoVision game system’s On/Off switch at the ON position for at least 5 minutes with the power plug off the electricity source. Please do not skip this stage<span style="color: black;">.</span></span><br />
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<i>Disclaimer: </i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"><i>If you are not skilled with a soldering iron, please have this installed by someone experienced! I <br />
cannot be held responsible for any harm you do to yourself or to your game console. This upgrade is for the NTSC ColecoVision console only!</i></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GQYj_9uvJDI/VsjkvVa7IZI/AAAAAAAADaA/p_uK_IetU58/s1600/ColecoVision%2BComposite%2Bor%2BSvideo%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GQYj_9uvJDI/VsjkvVa7IZI/AAAAAAAADaA/p_uK_IetU58/s400/ColecoVision%2BComposite%2Bor%2BSvideo%2BMod%2BKit%2BRetroFixes.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></span><i> </i><br />
</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"><a href="http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf"><span style="font-size: medium;">Read this Awesome "Soldering is Easy – Comic" for Basic 101s of soldering click here.</span></a> </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"> <b>Tools Needed </b><br />
• Soldering iron, solder</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">• Wire Strippers (or scissors with patience and practice)<br />
• Drill with 3mm 1/4” drill bit (for RCA jacks) <br />
• Philips-head screwdriver <br />
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<span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Step 1: <br />
Unscrew the eight screws shown below </span></span></span><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"><span style="color: magenta;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">(I forgot to highlight the 2 side screws)</span></span></span>. Then open the ColecoVision, separate the halves gently and carefully. It's not easy!</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: black; font-size: small;">This Step can be tricky and patience is required! The bottom shell needs to be moved back and slightly up. Wiggle it but don't force anything. The power and reset buttons can be stubborn and prevent the shell from releasing.</span></span><br />
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Step 2:<br />
Remove the two screws off the shielding over the motherboard and remove it. You may also need to desolder the RF shield from the motherboard. Some revisions have the RF shielding solder to the motherboard & secured with screws.<br />
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Step 3: <br />
Remove the metal cover from the RF box shown below.<br />
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Step 4: <br />
Now, solder wires as shown below. These wires are for the (input) side of the amp kit.<br />
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Step 5:<br />
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I am lacking clear pictures for RCA jack hole drilling. This is a general guide for all RCA jacks installations.<br />
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<li>Placement of Jacks is personal choice. I prefer shortest wires possible and install the jacks near the amp kit and RF box as shown. Others prefer the Jacks near the Controller bay. It's your choice. If picking the location show, the RF shielding will need bending and modification as shown below.</li>
<li>Spacing for most RCA jacks is 15mm center to center of jack.</li>
<li>Measure and mark drilling area with a sharpie market.</li>
<li>First drill a small 3mm pilot hole.</li>
<li>Next drill the final 1/4" hole.</li>
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Example of RCA jacks installed.<br />
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The illustration below is a quick overview of the pin-outs and soldering points. View the image at max size and double check you installation.<br />
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Final Steps.<br />
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It’s wise to check the functionality before completely assembling the stubborn top shell. Just be careful and make sure nothing is shorted before plugging it in. Also, cleaning the cartridge port with alcohol and a toothbrush would be a great idea.<br />
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</span></span></span></span></span>Retro Fixeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07398221620016185889noreply@blogger.com